Log Book

Sat, 30 Dec 2006, Tous à bord

Conditions were ideal to drive to Vagabond with snowmobiles, Thursday night, with Ståle, Pia, and few hundreds kilos of equipment. Good snow, clear sky, moon light, and magnificent northern lights, bordered with red. It was really nice after so much work in town to get everything ready (thanks to Jörg, from Norwegian Polar Institute, for his help!). France and Josée came to welcome us on shore, ice is now thick enough to support one person, it was a warm reunion! Ståle, Josée and Pia tried vainly to go back yesterday to Longyearbyen. They had to give up after 2 hours attempt in a snowstorm, then France and I saw them coming back. While waiting for better conditions, we are now 5 on board. Our 3 big dogs left the deck and are again on sea ice.

Posted Dec 2006 30 at 12:53 [en - fr]

Mon, 25 Dec 2006, Houle

"On est passé de -23 à +1°C, avec pas mal de vent aujourd'hui : Josée était sur le pont pour déneiger les passavants lorsque j'ai trouvé qu'on bougeait de plus en plus, roulis avec un peu d'élan... Je vais voir dehors, branle bas de combat : des fissures s'élargissaient à vue d'oeil, les plaques se dessoudaient ! Le temps de mettre la niche à bord de l'annexe (merci Josée), de libérer les chiens qui étaient proche de la baignade (mais Frost et Imiaq y sont quand même allés par mégarde dans la nuit), et de les remonter à bord, on a eu chaud. Frost a failli se faire écraser entre 2 plaques, puis contre le bateau... Et maintenant, calme avant la tempête à nouveau puisque le baro a fait une grosse chute, et la glace est toute en morceaux autour de Vagabond. Le rappel est parfois rude entre l'ancre et les amarres, les gros bouts de glace qui choquent un peu les flans avec une petite houle. Bruits de vagues, ambiance sonore curieuse dans ce calme plat... Ne vo us inquiétez pas trop, ça va quand même à bord !" France

Posted Dec 2006 25 at 23:16 [en - fr]

Sat, 23 Dec 2006, Intrépide

"Aujourd'hui, 3 visites d'un jeune ours, qui semble être toujours le même depuis 3 jours... Et la 3ème fois fût un peu 'chaude' : après avoir été regarder l'état de la banquise de l'autre coté de la petite moraine (des pancakes regelés... pas encore bon pour les motoneiges), Josée s'affairait à dégager une des niches, moi je veillais. Les chiens, détachés, nous ont soudain alerté ! Le temps d'apercevoir avec la frontale les yeux de l'ours, j'ai rappelé les chiens qui sont revenus rapidement (bel esprit protecteur, ouf!), mais l'ours, vraiment pas loin approchait vite et sans détour ! Josée aux pétards, moi au fusil, les pétards s'ouvrant mal (le grattoir partant avec le capuchon !), j'ai tout de même chargé et commencé à viser, quand un pétard l'a enfin fait fuir... On l'a vu de près le bougre ! Bref, retour rapide au bateau, et séance apprentissage du fusil pour Josée. J'espère que ce jeune intrépide va finir par nous laisser tranquille (il es t venu vraiment proche vers 8h du matin, vu les traces). On est quand même contentes, on s'est bien organisées (à part qu'on a pas gardé un chien en laisse...)." France

Posted Dec 2006 23 at 20:05 [en - fr]

Fri, 22 Dec 2006, Solstice

Half of the polar night is behind. It's snowing tonight, and the girls had a first visit from a polar bear, very close to the boat, just after Josée went back on board! Imiaq, faithful watchdog, gave the alarm.

Posted Dec 2006 22 at 18:31 [en - fr]

Wed, 20 Dec 2006, Planches

"Aujourd'hui, grand changement : redoux à +1°C avec pas mal de vent. Vers midi, nous avons sorti l'annexe de sa gangue de glace, les chiens se sont fait un plaisir de la tirer vers la terre... mais on s'est arrêté juste avant : on voulait ramener les niches dedans mais aux abord de la berge, la glace sous la neige était fracturée, Josée a fait un peu l'équilibriste ! Par contre, chaque chien est maintenant installé sur une planche sur la glace, Jin bénéficie même de l'annexe, proche de Vagabond. Et Josée a réussi à retirer les 15 bon cm de neige/glace/pisse et crottes de chiens sur la plage arrière, ça c'est le bonheur !" France

Posted Dec 2006 20 at 20:09 [en - fr]

Tue, 19 Dec 2006, Spectacle

France and Josée's turn to enjoy polar night, life on board is getting organized. Their shoes and clothes are almost dry, since their forced baths 3 days ago, when arriving to the boat. Northern lights are lighting up the sky, and the cold is strengthening pack ice, but they are very careful before walking on ice again. "-20°C yesterday, -13°C today, with a little wind very cold. Clear and starry sky, great northern lights. All is fine, this morning Josée walked on ice and we let the dogs run one by one, a first step!" is telling France.

Posted Dec 2006 19 at 21:07 [en - fr]

Sun, 17 Dec 2006, La télé de la voile

Vagabond is on Sailing News

Posted Dec 2006 17 at 21:16 [en - fr]

Sun, 17 Dec 2006, Fragile

France and Josée are replacing Nicole, she went back with the helicopter, after 70 days alone on board Vagabond. Temperatures were quite high the last few days and pack ice is now more fragile, sometimes breaking up when walking on it. "Our arrival was a bit tricky! But it is so nice, I'm so happy to see the dogs, and the boat is in so good condition. She is heeling on port, water is a bit high in the toilets, tomorrow snow will be removed from the front deck. It was 20°C on board when we arrived, we turned a little down the heating!" France

Posted Dec 2006 17 at 01:44 [en - fr]

Sat, 16 Dec 2006, En attendant l'hélico

"It's snowing and it's nicer and nicer!" Nicole

Posted Dec 2006 16 at 01:38 [en - fr]

Thu, 14 Dec 2006, Rotation anticipée

Nicole's back is too painful, a repatriation is on going. France and our friend Josée just left Paris, they are in the plane to Longyearbyen, they will then go and replace Nicole on board Vagabond.

Posted Dec 2006 14 at 22:43 [en - fr]

Sat, 09 Dec 2006, Elastique

"An attempt to set up the dogs on ice near the boat, but snow is becoming water when walking on it, and I cannot let them sleep on that. Dog houses are too heavy for my painful back! So they are still on the deck. I think they got fat, not doing anything! I can walk on ice, but it is still elastic like an old wooden floor. Moon light is great, and all is shining like diamonds." Nicole

Posted Dec 2006 09 at 10:32 [en - fr]

Wed, 06 Dec 2006, Solide

"Pack ice looks nice and solid, full moon is magnificent with shining snow, it's almost as good as the sun!" Nicole

Posted Dec 2006 06 at 09:44 [en - fr]

Mon, 04 Dec 2006, Premiers pas

"I did my first steps on ice around Vagabond, yippee!!" Nicole

Posted Dec 2006 04 at 07:12 [en - fr]

Sat, 02 Dec 2006, Flotte

"Vagabond flotte toujours ! Ca ressemble à une bonne nouvelle, écrit au sujet d'un bateau, mais je préférerais qu'il ne flotte plus !" Nicole

Posted Dec 2006 02 at 23:34 [en - fr]

Fri, 01 Dec 2006, Poêle

"J'ai l'impression de parler toujours de la même chose, mais c'est vrai que je regarde la nouvelle couche de glace avec espoir ! La température intérieure ne dépassant pas 6 degrés ce matin, je m'attendais à un froid de pingouin dehors, mais non : c'était juste le poêle qui boudait. Je lui ai fait son gros nettoyage et il chauffe à nouveau superbement." Nicole

Posted Dec 2006 01 at 00:13 [en - fr]

Sun, 26 Nov 2006, Collier

"Je deviens enragée avec les chiens, malgré un fourrage arrosé de fuel TOUS les jours, ils ont bouffé la sortie d'antenne qui relie le patara. J'ai recouvert d'une boite à conserve les fourrages en plastique afin qu'ils ne soient pas abimés, et je suis très embêtée de ce dégât. Impossible de mettre les chiens ailleurs, Vagabond flotte toujours. L'eau commence juste à être pâteuse, entre des petites plaques de glace. S'il continue à faire froid et qu'il n'y a pas de nouveau un vent du diable, ça va finir par geler et je n'attends que ça. Pas de neige non plus. Le ciel est couvert chaque jour et ne s'éclaircit que la nuit... Cela m'a plongée dans le noir de bonne heure. Il y a de fréquentes mais petites aurores. Hier, le célèbre ouaf-ours d'Imiaq m'a permis d'en voir un, taille ado, avec un collier." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 26 at 00:00 [en - fr]

Mon, 20 Nov 2006, Poils

"Tout va bien... trois jours avec des températures au dessus de zéro, de la pluie, et plus l'ombre de glace dans la baie, ça alors. Il n'y a même plus de neige sur le bateau ! Les chiens perdent leurs poils en gros flocons. Un petit coup de vent de SE hier soir (43kn), et l'anémo qui ne marchait plus hier matin (il est reparti depuis). Le ciel est tellement bas qu'il n'y a pratiquement plus de jour." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 20 at 08:45 [en - fr]

Thu, 16 Nov 2006, Zéro

"La banquise qui devrait se mettre en place... Remboursez, remboursez !! Il fait zéro, la glace est toute en miettes, les crottes tellement molles que j'ai pu bien nettoyer le pont. C'est au moins ça. Vagabond flotte, il tapote un peu sur la glace et ça me fait bondir dans mon sommeil avec l'impression d'un quai sans pare-battage. Il y a de la lecture passionnante à bord, quand tu me parlais de livres scientifiques, Eric, je voyais des ouvrages hermétiques. Mais tous ces récits de gens qui ont voyagé dans le nord sont splendides." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 16 at 20:50 [en - fr]

Tue, 14 Nov 2006, Squiics

"Il fait -20. J'ai reçu un sms de la météo de Longyearbyen qui annonce du fort vent d'est pour ce soir. C'est vraiment gentil de me prévenir. Ce soir il neige, c'est ce que je préfère, et la glace "chante". En entendant les "squiics" pour la première fois hier soir, j'ai bondi sur le projecteur ! Mais non, pas de chat en balade sur la glace." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 14 at 16:20 [en - fr]

Mon, 13 Nov 2006, Aurore

"-18°C aujourd'hui, je couve la glace du regard. UNE AURORE BOREALE hier soir !!! J'en parlais toute seule. Déjà que j'étais collée aux vitres pour ne pas manquer les ours, maintenant je continue la nuit pour les aurores." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 13 at 22:24 [en - fr]

Sun, 12 Nov 2006, Pluie...

"Ah mais, quel pays !! Ca a soufflé toute la nuit, bonjour la glace qui casse, puis ce matin c'est monté pendant 2 heures à plus de 40 noeuds, pas grave si ce n'est que c'était du SW. Pas de protection de l'arrière donc, une bonne houle s'est développée qui venait casser sur le tableau arrière de Vagabond, j'ai cru que j'allais devoir mettre les chiens devant pour ne pas qu'ils soient mouillés. La météo de Longyearbyen m'a anoncé que ça allait tourner, et effectivement dans l'après midi dés que ça a viré ouest, on a eu la protection de la moraine, ce qui change tout ! Ah, contente à l'idée d'une bonne nuit ! C'est vrai que j'aime bien les cartes météo où on voit ce qui se passe là haut, vous me direz qu'être averti ne sert à rien ! Incroyable ce paysage qui change en qq heures : la grosse pluie ce matin a enlevé toute la neige du bateau. Et c'est de nouveau de l'eau grise autour de Vagabond. Donc, tout va très bien ce soir, j'ai même le plaisir d' avoir la compagnie d'une demi lune !" Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 12 at 23:46 [en - fr]

Sun, 12 Nov 2006, Tempête encore

"Ca souffle du sud-ouest, plein arrière donc, à 40 noeuds, ce qui lève une grosse houle. Plus aucune glace pour l'alourdir, la houle, ça tape et ce n'est vraiment pas drôle." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 12 at 18:47 [en - fr]

Fri, 10 Nov 2006, Il neige et neige et neige

"J'ai fait mon premier pas sur la glace à côté du bateau hier ! Elle n'a pas dit le moindre crac. S'il n'y a pas un vent d'enfer pour tout refaire craquer, je crois qu'on est sur la bonne voie. Plein de livres passionnants à bord, et quelques bons films aussi, quel luxe d'avoir autant de temps ! La lampe à pétrole mérite une médaille, elle éclaire parfaitement tout le carré. Un plein fait une vingtaine d'heures." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 10 at 20:52 [en - fr]

Mon, 06 Nov 2006, Accalmie

"Le vent est parti, aussi brusquement qu'il était arrivé, au petit matin. Ouf et re-ouf !! Plus un souffle de toute la journée. Le baro ne bouge pas, et du moment qu'il ne descend plus, je suis ravie. L'aussière qui nous a bien tenus, sur le côté, était un peu molle ce matin, mais son poids dans la surface pâteuse de l'eau ne m'a pas permis de reprendre le mou. Fichu dos ! Par contre, j'ai bien équilibré les deux de l'avant afin qu'elles tirent en même temps et les ai raccourcies pour diminuer l'élan que prend Vagabond dans la houle. Parce qu'il reste une fameuse houle. Le paysage a tout à fait changé avec de gros blocs de glace qui sont venus s'installer au bord de l'eau. J'ai hésité à aller à terre dans cette soupe un peu gelée, mais comme le va et vient s'est à nouveau fait la malle, j'ai renoncé. L'idée était de peut-être retrouver la pelle qui a du être poussée vers la rive. Le ciel s'est complètement dégagé en fin de matinée et du coup, il y avait plein de lumière ! La pleine lune ce soir : beau ! J'ai trop chaud ! Il fait - 4 dehors." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 06 at 21:47 [en - fr]

Sun, 05 Nov 2006, Comme en mer

Vagabond est entré dans la nuit polaire depuis une semaine, la météo célèbre ce nouvel hivernage à sa façon. "Samedi soir... c'est toujours pareil, de gros coups de rappel sur l'ancre, le bateau bien gîté, la glace qui cogne. Impossible de dormir avec le vacarme. J'ai du tout caler, on se croirait en mer tellement le bateau remue. Pauvres chiens ! Le baro continue à descendre, sale bête. On est toujours dans les 50 noeuds, du SE. Je suis furieuse et désolée : la pelle s'est envolée ! Sorry. Merci pour cette météo détaillée et qui surtout montre que ça va vers le mieux. C'est plutôt encourageant, même si le "mieux" est un peu en retard ce soir ! A part le stress de ce sale temps, la vie est vraiment magnifique sur Vagabond. Quand le temps est calme, les ours sont nombreux et c'est un régal. J'ai pu me promener comme une petite vieille avant que la glace recouvre tout, sous le regard envieux des chiens. Je peste d'être toujours dans un cocon de nuages bas qui me fait rater les dernières journées de lumière. Je n'ai eu qu'une fois un ciel dégagé, c'était la nuit avec plein d'étoiles, beau ! Et un petit bout d'écharpe verte qui n'a pas été plus loin." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 05 at 08:32 [en - fr]

Sat, 04 Nov 2006, Dépression

"50 noeuds de vent, du sud, sud-est. Ca veut dire que Vagabond s'est fortement rapproché de la moraine, j'espère que l'ancre va tenir ? L'aussière qui tient l'ancre sur l'arrière, que nous avions pourtant bien tendue, est maintenant bien visible allongée au vent sur le côté du bateau. C'est impressionnant, toute la glace est en morceaux et il y a de la houle. Le baro continue à chuter. Je ne vois rien que je puisse faire et c'est angoissant." Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 04 at 12:18 [en - fr]

Fri, 03 Nov 2006, Ciel étoilé

"Tout va bien à bord ! La baie est gelée, c'est fin, un ours y a posé une patte prudente et vite mouillée, mais avec le -20 de ce soir, je commence à y croire. Le dos est sage, juste une gène maintenant. Tant que je le laisse tranquille ça va. J'ai eu cette nuit mon premier ciel étoilé, tellement contente que ça m'a empêchée de dormir une partie de la nuit. Ce matin, back to the clouds. Bientôt un mois dans un cocon de nuages ! Les chiens sont OK, et moi je me plais bien ici !" Nicole

Posted Nov 2006 03 at 00:45 [en - fr]

Thu, 26 Oct 2006, Nicole attend la banquise

"Le vent est une peste, et il y en a eu souvent. Aujourd'hui, avec 12 sous zéro, de grandes plaques de glace commencent à se former. Sinon, tout va bien, je découvre de bons films !"

Posted Oct 2006 26 at 23:10 [en - fr]

Thu, 26 Oct 2006, Dos douloureux

Nicole devrait bientôt recevoir la visite d'un hélico de Longyearbyen, qui doit effectuer régulièrement des vols d'entraînement, et qui en profiterait pour lui apporter quelques anti-inflammatoires de plus. Les chiens sont toujours sur le pont, la baie n'est pas encore assez gelée pour les installer sur la banquise à côté du bateau.

"Vagabond va bien et je m'y plais, je souffre un peu de voir la cochonnerie sur le pont, impossible d'évacuer les crottes car il n'a pas neigé, elles sont donc collées sur le bois et je ne vais pas gratter car cela amocherait le teck. Beaucoup d'ours, souvent trois par jour. Je ne m'en lasse pas. Le dernier s'est laissé tomber dans la neige et s'y est roulé avec volupté, sous l'oeil de ma caméra. Chance ! Il fait noir à 4 heures. Moins 12° depuis deux jours."

Posted Oct 2006 26 at 00:29 [en - fr]

Sun, 22 Oct 2006, de Nicole

"Tout va bien, mais ce fichu vent n'arrête pas de chasser la glace que je voudrais bien voir solide ! Hier, deux ours ont joué ensemble, c'était magnifique de voir ces géants sur leurs pattes de derrière comme des gros nounours gentils. A part le mal de dos qui persiste, la vie est belle sur Vagabond."

Posted Oct 2006 22 at 23:06 [en - fr]

Wed, 18 Oct 2006, de Nicole

"Ici vent et grisaille, mais tout va bien, le pain est cuit ! Seul hic : j'ai un fort mal au dos qui me handicape depuis 3 jours. Jamais eu ça. Bisous de nous quatre !"

Posted Oct 2006 18 at 18:26 [en - fr]

Tue, 17 Oct 2006, Les portes glacées du Pacifique

Diffusion du film du Passage du Nord-Est de Vagabond, le 18 octobre à 15h46 sur France 5

Posted Oct 2006 17 at 18:46 [en - fr]

Mon, 16 Oct 2006, de Nicole

"Beau soleil aujourd'hui et le thermomètre au dessus de zéro, ce qui m'a permis de briquer le pont à grands seaux d'eau. Les chiens sont mignons comme tout, j'arrive à les monter et descendre avec leur harnais de traction et un palan de bossoir. Ils ont donc droit à une promenade. Je ne suis pas plus rassurée que ça à me promener sans vous, ne riez pas : aujourd'hui, j'ai gardé un pétard en main toute la balade ! Cet après midi, un beau gros ours est venu tout le long de la rive, en s'arrêtant pour humer l'air dans notre direction. Il est même allé aux niches, et a mis la tête dans celle d'Imiaq ! Merci Petit Jésus que les chiens étaient à bord. Ensuite, il s'est laissé tomber sur ses grosses fesses et est resté là à nous regarder, en baillant de temps en temps. Ce soir, j'ai regardé "les uns et les autres" de Lelouch, franchement barbant."

Posted Oct 2006 16 at 22:34 [en - fr]

Sat, 14 Oct 2006, de Nicole

"Hello! Just a short message to tell you everything is OK. Sea ice is coming in and out in the bay, I don't see many polar bears now, probably because I'm writing and reading a lot. Love and kisses, Nicole, Imiaq, Frost and Yin."

Posted Oct 2006 14 at 08:28 [en - fr]

Tue, 10 Oct 2006, Seule jusqu'à Noël

Since Saturday morning, Nicole is alone on board Vagabond. Sea is freezing slowly around the hull, but it is not yet possible to walk on it. Also the 3 dogs are now keeping her company on the deck, very happy to be away from the polar bears and closer to the food! France, Philippe, Thierry, Cédric and I walked back to Svea, the coal mine, at about 40 km from the boat. Not enough snow to ski or pull a pulka, backpacks were very heavy, but a 2 days trek very nice. Last sunbeams before the long polar night, and great full moon... Very warm welcome by the mine company Store Norsk, before flying to France, via Longyearbyen.

Posted Oct 2006 10 at 13:35 [en - fr]

Mon, 02 Oct 2006, En place pour le 3ème hiver

Vagabond and her crew left Longyearbyen late on 28 September, the weather was really great. Very nice stop at Hornsund Polish station, where 9 scientists are getting ready for the winter. Excellent conditions then, to do 5 profiles with the CTD, while sailing up Storfjord, enjoying some white beaked dolphins' company. Arrival on 30 September at Inglefield Bay, by night, with lot of drifting ice from the glacier. This one has been loosing hudge parts very often for the last 2 days, creating some fascinating swell. Nicole is getting slowly used to her new place, where she will live alone for the next 3 months. France and I are telling her everything before leaving. Cédric, Philippe and Thierry came to help setting up Vagabond and the camp for the third winter: lines to shore, dog houses, hut, weather station, particles sensor... and regular visits from polar bears!

Posted Oct 2006 02 at 17:05 [en - fr]

Wed, 27 Sep 2006, Derniers instants au port...

What time did Vagabond fill up her diesel tanks (4500 litres total!)? Departure in few hours!

Posted Sep 2006 27 at 19:53 [en - fr]

Tue, 19 Sep 2006, Premières neiges

Strong wind and snow for the last 2 days, summer is really finished now. Last work and preparations in Ny-Alesund, with now and then some nice parties or projections with the small community of the village. Also when some boats are stopping here: the Nordsyssel, Svalbard governor's ship, could finaly drop the little cabin close to Vagabond's wintering location (the same one from 2004 to 2008); the Lance, Norwegian Polar Institute's , just finished a cruise in Fram Strait, including some work for DAMOCLES. As soon as tomorrow morning, Vagabond will be heading to Longyearbyen, with 2 passengers, Linda, in charge of the small airport of Ny-Alesund, and Peter, scientific diver for Alfred Wegner Institute.

Posted Sep 2006 19 at 20:19 [en - fr]

Thu, 14 Sep 2006, A voir sur le site de DAMOCLES

Few pictures of Vagabond

Posted Sep 2006 14 at 23:53 [en - fr]

Mon, 11 Sep 2006, Nouvel album en ligne

Some pictures of our summer navigations and encounters in the fjords: Spitsbergen, summer 2006

Posted Sep 2006 11 at 19:50 [en - fr]

Wed, 06 Sep 2006, Ny-Alesund

Vagabond is at Ny-Alesund since 1st September. France and I are preparing the third winter and are using the facilities of the AWIPEV Research Base. Varnishing, painting, servicing and various maintenance, cleaning, packing, sorting out, supplying of food... activities are many and varied on board! Between 2 jobs, we are exploring the surroundings with mountain bikes pulled by our dogs, paddling at sunset between drifting ice in the great King's Bay, watching the reindeers or polar foxes coming right into the village, talking - and sharing a drink - with scientists or technicians... a talk about our 2 first winters in Spitsbergen is planned here on 12 September, and we will also jump into the jacuzzi!

Posted Sep 2006 06 at 16:50 [en - fr]

Thu, 31 Aug 2006, Navires pour DAMOCLES

Oceania, Maria S. Merian, Lance, Vagabond, as many vessels involved in DAMOCLES, and meeting up this summer in Longyearbyen. On their side, Kapitan Dranytsin and Tara are about to meet in the middle of the Arctic Ocean. More info on www.damocles-eu.org. Meeting memories... A bord d'Oceania à Longyearbyen

Vagabond et Maria S. Merian à Longyearbyen

Vagabond et Lance à Longyearbyen

Rencontre du Dranytsin à Mourmansk

Vagabond et Tara à Camaret

Posted Aug 2006 31 at 18:15 [en - fr]

Mon, 14 Aug 2006, Cabotage

Sailing with friends in Isfjord, treks or small trips ashore, kayaking or diving, alternately with maintenance and preparation of Vagabond for the next wintering. France is on board since last week. Great Arctic summer life...

Posted Aug 2006 14 at 13:32 [en - fr]

Thu, 20 Jul 2006, Longyearbyen

Vagabond is back to civilization, she arrived tonight around 7pm. She had left Longyearbyen harbour on 30 September 2005. Yesterday's stop at Hornsund Polish Polar Station was great. I was happy to meet again with Jozef Wiktor, we had been working together last year. 3 other yachts dropped anchor there as well (a real marina!), but Sebastien and me probably had special treatment (shower, lunch, gifts...). Next winter, our polish neighbours will be 9 including one woman.

Posted Jul 2006 20 at 00:08 [en - fr]

Mon, 17 Jul 2006, Isbukta

We left yesterday noon in the fog, with our 3 dogs very quiet at the back of the boat. Rough sea at the beginning, but Vagabond seemed happy sailing again, after 9 and half months frozen in ice. Short stop at Isbukta, just before going around the southern cape of Spitsbergen, and heading for the polish base in Hornsund.

Posted Jul 2006 17 at 14:14 [en - fr]

Sat, 15 Jul 2006, Chiens à terre

Pack ice has been broken up by the swell, and around 3am, dogs were suddenly drifting away... They are now on land, waiting for departure, and we put the 3 dog houses with the equipment staying here until we are back in October. Vagabond will be free within few hours.

Posted Jul 2006 15 at 09:30 [en - fr]

Fri, 14 Jul 2006, Demi tour

Pack ice is still holding us in our shelter, but the hole is now big enough around Vagabond and we could make a uturn today. Vagabond is looking at the exit!

Posted Jul 2006 14 at 20:25 [en - fr]

Fri, 14 Jul 2006, Défilé d'ours

9 o'clock this morning, a first polar bear too curious, a first flare. The 14 July dance could open on the ice still holding us, while last year, Vagabond could weigh anchor on 13 July.

Posted Jul 2006 14 at 09:37 [en - fr]

Mon, 10 Jul 2006, 30 ans

Seal meat for everyone, that was on the menu yesterday, for Sébastien's 30th birthday. Early morning, 4 polar bears were already eating a big seal, not far from Vagabond. At least hunting went good for one of them, he then had to share it with 3 others who arrived not long after the event. Then the birds pounced on the leftovers. Our dogs had to wait we finished our good seal meat panful, then they wolfed down the few bits of fat we gave them. About sea ice, no change. Also fog and drizzle are back, in the image of the defeat of the French team...

Posted Jul 2006 10 at 09:17 [en - fr]

Thu, 06 Jul 2006, Finale

France is playing the final next Sunday. May be the ice breaking up will be complete this same day, letting Vagabond finally free from the last 150m of ice? For now, we enjoy the very nice weather after 5 days of fog and drizzle, and the heart of Inglefield Bay is busy. Polar bears are hunting seals, or sleeping, or visiting Vagabond. On board, we sometimes have to jump out of our bunks, or stop our work, to help the dogs to dissuade a young polar bear more curious than the others. Or only to watch and listen to 2 cubs bickering, few metres from us. As for the Black Iceberg, he is free again and went away with the currents.

Posted Jul 2006 06 at 10:58 [en - fr]

Sun, 02 Jul 2006, Changement d'équipage

After one week trip around Svalbard, fantastic and unforgettable, Lance arrived yesterday night (permanent day light) at Inglefield Bay, at the end of which Vagabond is peacefully waiting for the complete ice breaking up. The heavy and wet fog did not allow us to use the helicopter to bring the cabin, which is plan to be set up on the moraine close de the yacht, to have a workshop, for DAMOCLES, for the next 2 winterings. Sébastien and I then went with the small boat from Lance to the ice edge where Enora, Yann and the 3 dogs were waiting for us, at about 200 meters from Vagabond. Enora and Jin fell in the water, while we were bringing the small boat alongside the ice, very fragile at this time of the year ; 3 polar bears were watching the scene, probably surprised! Time to meet together was too short and touching, dogs were shouting when Enora and Yann left. We found the boat impeccable and in perfect conditions, with fresh bread, home made yoghurts and even growing sala ds! A real pleasure to have entrusted Vagabond to them for one and a half month.

Posted Jul 2006 02 at 17:03 [en - fr]

Fri, 23 Jun 2006, Vagabond à 3km de l'eau libre

Vagabond and open water are still separated by about 3km of fast ice. Seals are more and more in Inglefield Bay, and there was also a female polar bear and her cub yesterday. During this summer solstice period, salads are growing better than ever inside the boat, giving a bit of greens to Enora and Yann for their last week on board. For my part, I'm back to Longyearbyen after one month in France, and I'm getting ready to embark on Sunday on board Lance, ship of the Norwegian Polar Institute, with my team mate Sébastien, to go to Vagabond and to replace Enora and Yann.

Posted Jun 2006 23 at 12:18 [en - fr]

Thu, 08 Jun 2006, Salades sur la banquise

It's raining today and fog is not encouraging for long trips, but salads are growing slowly on board Vagabond! Between hair cut and generator oil change, fishing attempt are still not successful. Snow is softer and softer, water ponds are more and more on sea ice, trips are often very wet, but Enora and Yann are having a very good time. They even did a small sledge with a box, a barrel and skis, to better travel around with the dogs. Good fun for sure!

Posted Jun 2006 08 at 12:13 [en - fr]

Sat, 27 May 2006, Fonte

No polar bear for one week, very nice weather, Enora and Yann are feeling better to walk around Vagabond. Their technique is improving to ski with the dogs, or to bake bread, while sea ice keeps drifting slowly away in front of Inglefield Bay.

Posted May 2006 27 at 23:33 [en - fr]

Tue, 23 May 2006, Petite frayeur

During a recent short trip, Enora and Yann met very close a polar bear, hidden by some relief. Strong emotion, but the dogs were there to dissuade the plantigrade from approaching.

Posted May 2006 23 at 18:34 [en - fr]

Wed, 17 May 2006, Enora et Yann, seuls à bord

It was 7:30 yesterday morning when I said bye to my substitutes. It is the second time since Vagabond is in Spitsbergen (August 2004) that I am leaving her to go back to France for few weeks. The old snowmobile went across all tricky passages to bring me in less than 3 hours to Svea. Few reindeers were sometimes watching me during long skids on ice, the river was fortunately well frozen again. Nicely welcomed by the coal company, I only had to sit in the little plane flying to Longyearbyen, the day before the national day.

Posted May 2006 17 at 18:03 [en - fr]

Sun, 14 May 2006, Passation de consignes

The many polar bear visits, day and night (22 within 5 days), are giving chance to Enora and Yann to apply at once everything I am explaining to them about safety, dogs, use of bangers, alarm pistol and rifle. While giving instructions to my substitutes, I am also getting ready to drive to Svea, the closest inhabited place, at 46 km, with the snowmobile that could be repaired. I will nevertheless bring with me all equipment needed to finish the trip on skis, in case of another breakdown. The temperature is still below zero, conditions are excellent to travel around.

Posted May 2006 14 at 11:22 [en - fr]

Thu, 11 May 2006, Liaison réussie avec la civilisation

My substitutes Enora and Yann are now on board, until end of June. Hervé and all scientific equipment could at least be picked up yesterday, by 6 snowmobiles. While loading the sledges before going back, a polar bear cub and the mother were passing in front of the glacier. Not long before, when we were finishing a trip with the dogs, I could see them, from the top of the moraine, looking around the boat... I fired in the air to scare them away, without success, but they left quite quickly, taking another piece of snowmobile seat. A total of 6 polar bears seen yesterday.

Posted May 2006 11 at 10:13 [en - fr]

Wed, 10 May 2006, Dernière tentative motoneige

After a good reconnaissance yesterday, Stefano will try one last time to come from Longyearbyen with my 2 substitutes, and to pick up Hervé and all the scientific equipment. For my part, I'm getting ready to ski back to town, after giving instructions for 2 or 3 days, because my snowmobile's suspension is broken. The machine will stay here over the summer, hoping that it will resist to unavoidable polar bear visits... While waiting, we enjoy fantastic weather and hard snow thanks to the below zero temperatures for the last 3 days. Best conditions for skiing with the dogs. Hervé organised as much as he could the shipping of every instruments, and I also could do a CTD from the ice edge, watching a magnificent eider ducks flight. Being now close to open water, as we expected it, brought us some more visitors yesterday. A young determined polar bear, then a big male more careful, and few hours later, the young followed by the big male. 4 bangers were enough to delimit our te rritory, but my snowmobile seat has again been damaged!

Posted May 2006 10 at 10:49 [en - fr]

Tue, 09 May 2006, Débâcle dans le Storfjord

The westerly wind has blown away the fast ice that was attached to the coast. 2 month earlier than last year, ice breaking-up has started in front of our protected bay, in the great Storfjord. Few days more and we would have lost an important instrument (IMB), and we would have not been able to do the last series of CTD casts, 5 km from the coast.

Posted May 2006 09 at 09:26 [en - fr]

Mon, 08 May 2006, En attente

The 3 skiers left today on skis with their dogs and pulkas. The weather forecast are announcing below zero temperatures, Stefano will try by snowmobile tomorrow Tuesday 9th, before a last attempt to reach Vagabond on Wednesday 10th. If no success, Hervé will have to call a helicopter to pick him up, and to also drop Enora and Yann. Strange feeling to be stuck when the weather is so nice.

Posted May 2006 08 at 20:55 [en - fr]

Sun, 07 May 2006, Eté à Longyearbyen

While a snow storm is blowing around Vagabond, the guide Stefano just called me by phone to tell us that he had to give up during his second attempt to reach us. Too soft, wet, and not enough snow for snowmobiles. Enora and Yann, the 2 crew members expected to replace me, are back to Longyearbyen; Hervé and all the scientific equipment are stuck on board Vagabond, as well as the 3 skiers that Stefano was also suppose to pick up. I invited them to wait inside. Nobody knows how long this will last, Stefano has appointment with the Governor tomorrow to speak about helicopter, unless we get cold temperatures again...

Posted May 2006 07 at 21:01 [en - fr]

Fri, 05 May 2006, Activité intense

Stefano and his group of tourists came with Hervé on 1st May, and also dropped 60 kg of dog food. Not long after they left, we managed to recover the IMB from its ice vice, not without difficulty. A light easterly wind in the morning fortunately closed up the lead. The next day, we set up for about 15 hours on sea ice, to do another series of measurements with the CTD and the current meter. On our way, it was not easy to call back the dogs, very interested in a female seal protecting her young seal. Extraordinary atmosphere at midnight sun. When coming back to the boat, very early in the morning, we saw 3 dog teams and few tents about 200m from Vagabond. You could imagine how excited were our 3 dogs when they met up with the dogs they grew up with at Arctic Adventure dog yard! Herve and I were then invited to share the breakfast of a dozen of Americans, it was very nice meeting them. I was also happy to see Lisa again, in charge of the dogs, and to get some news from Long yearbyen. Yesterday, about ten skiers from British School of Explorers Society (bses.org.uk) came to visit us, wondering what Hervé and I were trying to get from under the ice. They are all together about 30 young graduates skiing around for 3 months. While visits are linked together, we finished taking down the weather mast, and we only have to put everything in boxes and carry them to Longyearbyen with snowmobiles this week-end.

Posted May 2006 05 at 11:36 [en - fr]

Mon, 01 May 2006, La banquise s'ouvre

Great day yesterday, I saw a mother polar bear with her cub close to 5 reindeers, a lot of seals, birds... but last gale created a fracture in fast ice, not far from the coast, and one of our instruments, the IMB, is about 3km away on the other side of this open water lead. Hervé is coming today, then 2 of us will try to rescue this equipment.

Posted May 2006 01 at 12:25 [en - fr]

Sun, 30 Apr 2006, Troc

Sun has been shinning for the last 3 days, and I've been able to do some work on sea ice with the CTD, and to travel around with the dogs or the snowmobile. Fantastic. Temperature is still around zero, the thick snow layer has reduced and packed a lot. If conditions are very good to ski around Vagabond, snow has already melted near Longyearbyen, rivers are running and are difficult to cross. We just decided to recover the equipment 8 days earlier. We will start on Tuesday 2nd May to remove and pack all scientific instruments, with Hervé who is coming back alone this time. Is it a race against global warming? Nevertheless we hope to bring everything back to Longyearbyen, with snowmobiles, before all snow disappears!

Yesterday morning, I suddenly saw few tents and skiers, on the other side of the bay, at 3 km from Vagabond. Not long after, 8 French people were on board, with all kinds of questions, and I had the nice surprise to meet up with Dominique, from Grand Nord travel agency, Stéphane, in charge of Paul-Emile Victor Centre in the Jura, and Gérard, the guide of the group. I left Jin and Frost going with them to see the glacier, and I join their camp in the evening with Imiaq. Very nice time in their mess tent heated up with a stove, then I went back quickly on skis with the 3 dogs. I will not forget the extra coffee they offered to me; I was only just back on board, I tipped over my cup and I slightly burnt my hand! Wind speed went over 50 knots last night, but I found their camp OK this morning, when I brought them what they needed to treat some blisters. Later, I could watch from a hill the little caravan slowly moving away.

Posted Apr 2006 30 at 13:04 [en - fr]

Thu, 27 Apr 2006, Voisins croisés

Heli, our Finnish friend who was on board Vagabond last summer in Greenland, is since the beginning of the week in a very small hut, 28 km North of Vagabond, with 2 colleagues from the Norwegian Polar Institute. They came to hunt some seals to take the necessary samples for their studies about pollution impact on species. Despite fog and slightly above zero temperature, weather was calm today and I decided to go and visit them, after having entered all useful coordinates in my GPS. Lots of fresh polar bear tracks on the way. I found the hut, but nobody. Back to the boat later in the day, I had a message from my neighbours who were on board exactly when I was in their place! Pack ice radio is not always efficient to coordinate together...

Posted Apr 2006 27 at 19:13 [en - fr]

Wed, 26 Apr 2006, Seul à bord pour 2 semaines

The weather on 24th April morning was really nice, the skiers could dry all their equipment, and reorganize their pulkas with the supplies waiting for them on board Vagabond. The 2 Norwegians and the Swedish were happy to share their long crossing with us all (www.jenterpalangs.com), lively atmosphere on board. For Caroline and Frédéric, it was a more memorable meeting. Both of them have been selected among other candidates to have a first polar experience on board Vagabond. This invitation was organized with La Guilde Européenne du Raid (www.la-guilde.org) in return for all supports I got for the last 20 years. Caroline and Frédéric could then discover sea ice, icebergs, wintering life on board, snowmobile, Greenlandic dogs, snow analysis by glaciologists, use of CTD and icemeter, permanent daylight...

France left yesterday by snowmobile, in the fog, with the 2 scientists, the 2 young guests and the guide. The Douarnenez Sea Festival team is now waiting for her in Brittany! About science, mission accomplished for Florent and Fred from Glaciology and Environmental Geophysics Laboratory of Grenoble; everything worked well, despite poor conditions (huge quantity of snow and monthly average temperature 11 degrees above normal). Not long after the team, the 3 skiers took the same direction, able to take advantage of the snowmobile track for few hours. Time for me to get ready, and the 3 dogs and I caught up with them. I joined them for about 10 kilometres. With the 2 strong ones, Jin and Imiaq, the girls doubled their average speed! I gave them some French cheese to wish them luck, then it was time for me to turn and go back to Vagabond. After several cancelled projects, I'm alone again, for about 2 weeks, with my 3 faithful companions.

Posted Apr 2006 26 at 15:01 [en - fr]

Mon, 24 Apr 2006, Skieuses

We are now 10 people on board, with Vera, Kristin and Ingebjorg, the 3 skiers who arrived yesterday evening. They left the southern point of Spitsbergen on 10th April, and they want to reach the north of the Island before 13th of May, with their pulkas and 2 dogs. Vagabond is their only supply stop. They had only bad weather since they started...

Posted Apr 2006 24 at 08:55 [en - fr]

Sat, 22 Apr 2006, Jour permanent

While France, Caroline and Frédéric were going with Florent to start thermal conductivity measurements of the snow, Stefano, Fred and me went to pick up the sledges and their loads, a curious polar bear looking at us. It took us all about 4 hours then, to find under the snow one of the 2 measuring stations deployed last February! It is still snowing and the sun is not often showing up, though it will not set before end of August.

Posted Apr 2006 22 at 10:46 [en - fr]

Fri, 21 Apr 2006, Arrivée sans bagages

Yesterday was a better day, good to see the sun for a while, great tour around to discover a transformed landscape under the thick layer of snow. The expected team finally arrived last night, after 9 hours trip from Longyearbyen, but had to leave the sledges (so no luggages, no food...) behind because of too much snow. We are going to pick them up now, at about 10km from Vagabond.

Posted Apr 2006 21 at 09:22 [en - fr]

Thu, 20 Apr 2006, Le mât météo ne répond plus

Urgent message from Paris, LOCEAN (Oceanography and Climate Laboratory: Experimental and Digital Approach) is not receiving any data from the weather mast since 14/4. Only 500m to go for us, from Vagabond, but in these conditions, the trip is keeping us busy for half a day. Too much snow and lack of fuel, dogs and pulka are replacing (pleasantly) the snowmobile to go to the mast location. The weight of snow is so that the pack ice is 29cm under the sea level, the battery at the bottom of the mast was submerged. Now out of the water, everything is working again since last night. The team we expected yesterday had to postpone their trip today because of bad weather.

Posted Apr 2006 20 at 08:32 [en - fr]

Mon, 17 Apr 2006, Neige incessante

It has been snowing every day since 1st of April. It took 9 hours to the previous team to drive back to Longyearbyen, last week. Despite the exceptional day on 12th April, we can not go too far from Vagabond, the visibility is often too poor. 3 days ago, we needed 4 hours to do 3km for some of the weekly measurements, which we can usually do in less than one hour when the weather is fine. But no risk of falling down badly with the kite, and we did our first tacks, dogs intrigued barking at us!

Posted Apr 2006 17 at 10:40 [en - fr]

Wed, 12 Apr 2006, Un air de vacances

Yesterday was fantastic. Great sunshine, around zero temperatures in the morning, perfect conditions for diving. A frozen regulator did not allow me to explore much under the ice, but after several free dives, I could collect some shrimps for the aperitif. Skiing afternoon, a lot of snow, becoming lighter later in the day, while temperature was decreasing down to -19C. Back to the boat around 11pm, wonderful sky, characteristic of this cold air. But the dogs, starving after so much efforts in the snow, were disappointed because the box with their food was frozen. It is snowing again this morning, temperature rose up to -5, stomachs are full now.

IMB's antenna, damaged by a polar bear, was repaired few days ago. The instrument is working fine, but data are still not transmitted, neither position, so we will have to recover it before ice breaking up, not to loose it.

Posted Apr 2006 12 at 11:01 [en - fr]

Mon, 10 Apr 2006, Bonne récolte

5 days busy with Hervé, Fred, Tonio and Torbjorn, who left today, not long after a polar bear passed near Vagabond. Despite the heavy snow falls and not cold enough temperatures, despite getting stuck many times with the snowmobiles, a good work has been done. Successful first results with the Ice T, a new instrument to measure ice thickness from underneath; conditions were not good to let me dive to do some more calibrations, but Tonio could enjoy the hole that has been prepared carefully to have a look at the hidden side of the ice (water temperature: -1,9°C !). The currentmeter recorded any movements of the water, at every depth, during 4 days, and the CTD was sent 27 times down to 90m during a tide cycle. Every evening on board, cachaça and prune were necessary to do good analysis of the results.

Posted Apr 2006 10 at 23:23 [en - fr]

Wed, 05 Apr 2006, Equipe retardée, IMB muet

Too much snow yesterday, the team trying to reach Vagabond had to turn back. Second attempt today. About the instrument deployed on 30th March (IMB), it has stopped transmitting (ARGOS system) since 3rd April. We will go and check, as soon as the weather will be fine, if a polar bear damaged it, or if the icepack has drifted away...

Posted Apr 2006 05 at 11:52 [en - fr]

Mon, 03 Apr 2006, Ours dans le camp

Wind and snow yesterday were not pushing us outside. Office day on board. Suddenly Frost barked, a polar bear was in the camp, between Imiaq's dog house, the storage tent and the snowmobile! The boat's horn and a banger were used in addition to Frost's barking, the polar bear was not starving apparently and didn't stay. A female, with a collar. Under these weather conditions, we didn't see coming the animal, neither the dogs! Finally, as there was no damage, we are glad having seen it so close.

Posted Apr 2006 03 at 09:50 [en - fr]

Sun, 02 Apr 2006, Premiers skieurs de passage

During our short tour yesterday afternoon, we found new tracks from 2 skiers and pulkas. We could see them with the binoculars, and we reached them quite quickly with the dogs, while they were finishing setting up their camp, on a flat and open area on pack ice, not far from where we deployed the IMB. It was nice meeting Jan and Arnold from Belgium, who told us that when going down the Inglefield Glacier, they knew that they arrived on the sea when they saw the boat on the other side of the bay!

Posted Apr 2006 02 at 11:59 [en - fr]

Fri, 31 Mar 2006, Dernières aurores

I woke up suddenly this morning, I thought I heard steps on the deck, but it was only ice cracking, echoing against the hull. The polar bear we met last night, who stopped us while setting up a new scientific instrument (IMB), was still present in our minds! As well as the big fight between our 3 dogs that occurred few moments before.

It has been as very nice weather for one week (blue sky, temperatures between -15 and -30, no wind). Light is now enough at midnight not to need a headlight any more, and we will have to wait for the end of September to have enough darkness to watch northern lights again. Within few days, sea ice was back in front of Inglefield Bay, and we could start again our usual measurements (CTD, electromagnetic icemeter) after the bad weather. Amazing to be at about 10km from the coast, above 100m water, driving a snowmobile on 30 to 40 cm of very flat ice, when it was all open water on 15th of March. Busy days this week, enjoying one of the best time of the year: scientific jobs, ski tours, climbing icebergs, setting up a new wind generator... Sebastian and Trond, from the Norwegian Polar Institute, spent 2 days with us to set up 3 spectrometers on the weather mast. These sensors will measure for about 2 months the intensity of the light received, reflected and transmitted by the pac k ice. We were happy to share their experience, and to get a new, simple, clever system to measure ice thickness.

Posted Mar 2006 31 at 13:46 [en - fr]

Fri, 31 Mar 2006, Energie vagabonde

Le vent a soufflé fort la semaine dernière, et notre bonne vieille éolienne fournissait inlassablement ces quelques ampères qui améliorent le confort à bord. Elle tourne ainsi, presque sans discontinuer, depuis 4 ans, depuis le début du partenariat entre Accastillage Bernard et Vagabond. La Rutland 913 a ainsi vécu la première circumnavigation arctique, 17 mois d'aventures et d'inévitables tempêtes; puis un repos de 10 jours au Salon Nautique de Paris en décembre 2003, lorsque Vagabond y était à l'honneur, sur la moquette. Quelques mois plus tard il a fallu repartir, et c'est au Spitsberg que notre éolienne s'est installée depuis l'été 2004, fidèle au poste pour le deuxième hivernage actuellement en cours. Elle fût soulagée pendant la nuit polaire, lorsque la plupart des ampoules des plafonniers ont été remplacées par des ampoules 5w, divisant par plus que 3 la consommation électrique liée à l'éclairage. Elle s'impatiente presque en sachant que bientôt, ce seront des diodes qui réduiront son travail. Mais surtout, elle ne fût pas déçue de voir arriver la relève : il y a quelques semaines, la première équipe scientifique apportait une éolienne neuve et identique. De plus, le soleil s'est levé fin février, marquant la fin de 4 mois de nuit polaire, et les 5 panneaux solaires (Unisolar souples 32W) ont alors repris du service. Lorqu'il n'y a ni vent ni soleil pour recharger les batteries de Vagabond, le générateur du bord alimente notre infaillible chargeur Cristec, envoyé en urgence par AB lorsque Vagabond était en panne d'énergie au Japon, au printemps 2003. Si, au contraire, vent et soleil s'associent pour fournir une dizaine d'ampères, alors nous pouvons allumer le gros convertisseur Victron, et disposer de 220V pour alimenter principalement le congélateur et l'ordinateur. C'est la situation idéale, qui permet de ne pas faire tourner le générateur, d'économiser du gasoil, et de minimiser les gaz d'échappements. Un point essentiel pour nous qui assurons la logistique du programme de recherche international DAMOCLES, concerné par les changements climatiques. Toute cette gestion d'énergie est contrôlée de près avec notre inséparable moniteur Victron, qui nous confirme l'état de fatigue avancé des batteries du bord, dont le remplacement est déjà prévu par des batteries Delphi, plus petites mais plus puissantes. Si les programmes scientifiques, auxquels Vagabond et son équipe collaborent, se déroulent bien, c'est donc grâce au soutien d'AB, qui conseille et fournit ces équipements. Pour une meilleure connaissance de l'Arctique et de l'évolution des climats de notre planète.

Posted Mar 2006 31 at 13:45 [en - fr]

Fri, 24 Mar 2006, Vent du nord

Northerly wind has been blowing for the last 6 days, blowing snow and poor visibility. The Polar Ocean Profiler (POP) could not be deployed in Storfjord, but some tests have been done in Inglefield's Bay, not far from Vagabond. It is close to the glacier front that we found a rather good depth (40m) to experiment this automatic CTD for 24 hours. The Ice Mass Balance (IMB) has not been installed in the too sheltered Inglefield's Bay. This known instrument doesn't need any test, and France and I will have to set it up in Storfjord when the weather will be better. Jean-Claude (French), Danielle (Canadian), Bruce (American) and Simen (Norwegian) had to cancel departure yesterday, but they could leave this morning despite the wind (equivalent chill temperature -42°C). A short week-end for 2 of us, then will come the next crew.

Posted Mar 2006 24 at 14:54 [en - fr]

Mon, 20 Mar 2006, Froid

Jean-Claude Gascard, in charge of DAMOCLES, is on board since Saturday, for new experiments on sea ice. Cold and strong wind are increasing fast the ice thickness, but also making difficult the search for the best location. Half of the crew already got some frost bites.

Posted Mar 2006 20 at 07:45 [en - fr]

Thu, 16 Mar 2006, Polynie de printemps

Open water at less than 1 km from Vagabond, this was yesterday's surprise. The icebergs we were going around the day before are now drifting off shore, as well as the experimental tube which resistance to ice was on test before putting the scientific instrument. Polar bears are back, and experiments next week will be difficult. The image 66 is well showing fast and unpredictable movements of sea ice.

Posted Mar 2006 16 at 09:41 [en - fr]

Wed, 15 Mar 2006, Ski naut'arctique

At least 20 cm thick sea ice, covered with a good layer of fresh snow. A snowmobile, a rope, ans skis (Pure for instance). Conditions were the best yesterday, great landscape, orange lights, full moon on the horizon. Few icebergs of clear ice, standing in Inglefield Bay's pack ice for the winter, to go round to make a fun route. Slower and majestic is the Emperor's Walk. The DVD just arrived on board, bravo Jérôme for these pictures. The winter we spent in Kerguelen, in 94, surely contributed to your passion.

Posted Mar 2006 15 at 09:21 [en - fr]

Sun, 12 Mar 2006, Seuls à bord

France and I are alone on board since 9th March, for ten days. The weather is deciding about our activities: study of sea ice, ski tour, various maintenance, emails, book, film... The sun came back less than 3 weeks ago. He is now rising at 6:30, after 1:30 hour of twilight, and night is not starting before 7pm. Sun glasses are already very useful in the middle of the day. What a change after the long polar night! A polar bear visited the weather mast (designed to resist to the most curious of them...), he dug a bit, but did not damage anything.

Posted Mar 2006 12 at 20:12 [en - fr]

Tue, 07 Mar 2006, Jeune banquise

After less than a week, the open water in Storfjord is covered with 20 to 30 cm of ice, sometines very hummocky, but enough to drive on it with snowmobile. While the weather mast is sending data every 6 hours, other experiments could start. Like last winter, the icemeter, in its new pulka, is measuring ice thickness; the CTD, with the good hand winch, is giving temperature and salinity of sea water depending on depth. All is about finding a way between ice blocks and leads, to get to Storfjord deeper waters, constantly moving. Northern lights and moon shine seem to be congratulating us for the work done.

Posted Mar 2006 07 at 20:02 [en - fr]

Fri, 03 Mar 2006, Equipe au travail

France and the second crew arrived Wednesday nigth, at 11pm. For more than one and a half hour, I could see the lights from the 3 snowmobiles coming to me. The polar bear who was hunting since the morning, in front of a seal hole, probably left when hearing the engines. The workshop tent was set up yesterday, the few items lost on the way were found (!), Hervé and Nicolas are now preparing the weather mast. As there is not enough sea ice in the turbulent Storfjord, it is the pack ice from Inglefield Bay, not far from Vagabond, which will support this important experiment.

Posted Mar 2006 03 at 10:07 [en - fr]

Sun, 26 Feb 2006, Seul à nouveau

The first team left yesterday. 3 busy days for Florent, glaciologist, Rémy, photographer, and Stefano, guide. The pack ice in Storfjord has been blown away by the last storm, Florent had to set up his 2 stations in Inglefield Bay where there is still ice. He is measuring the thermal conductivity of the snow, to calculate the sea ice formation speed, and then the quantity of brines rejected. Northern lights, polar bears, first minutes of sun on Vagabond, everything was there... except sea ice. The star of DAMOCLES program is being desired. The cold but strong North-West wind is not helping much to form sea ice thick enough to travel on it with snowmobile, few kilometres offshore. Without enough pack ice, studying Storfjord becomes much more complicate.

Posted Feb 2006 26 at 19:42 [en - fr]

Tue, 21 Feb 2006, Visiteurs

Very nice northern lights at night, great sun rises, a polar bear every day, 2 first birds, and first visitors! Erik and his 3 guides on training stopped here for few hours, before sleeping in their tent 20 km further.

Posted Feb 2006 21 at 08:42 [en - fr]

Sun, 19 Feb 2006, Eblouissant

First, the summits became pink. Then I went to the end of the moraine, from where the south horizon is the clearest, and I had the show, few minutes only. It is really worth waiting for the sun to come back.

Posted Feb 2006 19 at 20:21 [en - fr]

Sat, 18 Feb 2006, En attendant le soleil...

One year ago, the family carnival was on, a great time on board, celebrating the end of the polar night, unforgettable.

Today, our projects got a new base camp. After the steel hull for the Arctic, the stone walls for Brittany.

Surrounded with white and calm, my mind is wandering between memories and future.

Posted Feb 2006 18 at 18:26 [en - fr]

Fri, 17 Feb 2006, Partage

Today, 17th of February, the polar night is finished. But the horizon was cloudy at noon towards the South, and only groans from the ice pack were there. Between whale song, children moan and door grinding, the sound track was quite in harmony with the grey sky. If, in Spitsbergen, the sun could not share his first light (we'll wait more for heat), in France, the newspaper Le Parisien was telling about our adventures today, and the radio Europe 1 was asking me about global warming.

Posted Feb 2006 17 at 17:56 [en - fr]

Wed, 15 Feb 2006, Phare

Around noon yesterday, I saw a light, about 20 km north. Probably a snowmobile, it lasted only few seconds. People from Longyearbyen (70 km from Vagabond) are starting going further also; they are enjoying enough brightness to discover again the area, coming out of the polar night. When the sky is clear, we don't need any torch from 8 am to 4 pm. The weather is really nice today: -30 degrees, no cloud, full moon, light wind. Ideal conditions to reinforce sea ice which will support soon some new scientific equipment. There has been a lot of pressure last week with the wind and ice is all bumpy now, it will not be easy to move around. Far away, I can see an open lead, showing powerful and constant action from the currents. Polar bears are probably along this lead, visits are not so many now. Imiaq, the best watchdog, is less busy, but his companions Jin and Frost are there. If they are not so proud when a polar bear is getting close to them, they don't forget to remind Imia q he is 'new' in the team!

Posted Feb 2006 15 at 08:36 [en - fr]

Thu, 09 Feb 2006, Nord-Est

A cold wind has been blowing for the last 4 days, pack ice is everywhere again. Sea and land are getting covered with hard snow, packed by the wind. All prints, from skis, dogs, foxes, polar bears, are disappearing in few minutes. I have not seen any single sign of human life for more than one month, except a satellite in the sky, a star faster than others. Nevertheless, impossible to feel solitude when receiving so many friendly messages, when able to communicate with people and listen to the radio, all from such a pure and magnificent place.

Posted Feb 2006 09 at 08:48 [en - fr]

Sun, 05 Feb 2006, La lune est de retour

The moon is back, first quarter, superb. Like the sun, hidden for about 4 months per year (length of the polar night at 78 degrees North), the moon disappear under the horizon for 9 days every 28 days cycle. Deep silence yesterday night, you could hear your heart. But cold is gone again, and the thin ice is not much resisting to the small passing lows. This morning, I can hear the waves at about 200 m from Vagabond, scientific work could well be delayed.

Posted Feb 2006 05 at 09:55 [en - fr]

Thu, 02 Feb 2006, Chaud janvier

-2.8 degrees was the mean temperature for January (about 1 or 2 degrees less at Vagabond's wintering location), a new record. The normal monthly temperature should have been -15,4 degrees. It has been cold again for the last 3 days, sea is freezing again, the study of the sea ice and of its future should start as planned in 3 weeks...

Posted Feb 2006 02 at 19:38 [en - fr]

Sun, 29 Jan 2006, Réveils brutaux

Light wind these last few days, the sea didn't take away the little fast ice left in Inglefield Bay, the protecting ice berth is still around Vagabond. I finally managed to unfreeze the snowmobile and to move it to shore, near the igloo and the emergency camp box. Then at 7 this morning, I woke up once more time with a start when the dogs barked: a polar bear was trying to open the igloo like he would do with a seal den, jumping on it with his 2 front legs. Before sending him a deterrent bullet, he had put the snowmobile up side down. And time to check the flare gun and to put some warmer clothes, he got the snowmobile back on its 2 skis!

Posted Jan 2006 29 at 08:59 [en - fr]

Wed, 25 Jan 2006, Débâcle précoce ?

All ice in Inglefield Bay has drifted away yesterday. Monday already, during a short trip on the moraine, I could see there was no ice in the Storfjord. The wind changed direction since, and open water reached the Black Iceberg, at the entrance of the small bay where is Vagabond. This is why up to 5 polar bears visited me yesterday, and one this morning, looking for a way to go north. But with no ice, they are stopped on the moraine which is still protecting the boat from the open sea. Ice breaking up could be complete, if the swell and the wind don't stop. At the moment, weather is nice. Of course, everything is not ready on board for sailing now, and there is the snowmobile to bring to shore bu it doesn't want to move (frozen), the dinghy which is the roof of the safety igloo, the dog houses to dig out from the slush, the mooring lines to shore to put again... An ice breaking up alone, by night, with 3 dogs and quite a few polar bears around, I should not get bored! I'm also thinking about Mike Horn and Borge Ousland, trying to reach the North Pole, they want to be the first in winter, they left 2 days ago from Russia. I'm wondering about the conditions they will meet.

Posted Jan 2006 25 at 08:32 [en - fr]

Tue, 24 Jan 2006, Slush

Under the weight of the snow, the ice field is sinking slowly, sea water is coming over the ice and seeping into the snow. If the cold is not enough to freeze this water, then we find water under the snow. Quite common in this season. So yesterday I had to rescue the snowmobile, parked on a 83cm thick ice field, all covered with 50cm of snow, including 13cm of slush. Without doing anything, the cold would have trapped the snowmobile in ice! 2 hours of work, it finally went out of this very cold swimming pool, and then I was gone. Impossible to stop anywhere, I could get stuck again in the slush, so I was driving around the boat until I chose a high snowdrift on top of which the snowmobile will be dry for some time. With all the noise that can make such a machine, my 3 faithful cow-boys (I should write bear-dogs) probably believed Indians were attacking.

Posted Jan 2006 24 at 10:19 [en - fr]

Sat, 21 Jan 2006, Frustrant

The barometer has been rising up to 1029 mb, but the good weather never came. For the last few days, the air masses are transported across a long strait of open water, picking up moist air on the way, and bringing clouds with many snow falls. Under the wind pressure, Vagabond is tilting up to 5 degrees sometimes, now I have to use the anti-slippery sets we normally use when sailing! Our old wind generator is happy and can supply few lights, radio, CD player or computer... waiting for calm weather before going out again. Tomorrow at 12:40 pm on Radio France Internationale, you could listen to an interview from France and me, last time we met Arielle Cassim at Paris Boat Show.

Posted Jan 2006 21 at 14:11 [en - fr]

Thu, 19 Jan 2006, Bambou

Polar bears like very much bamboo, they are probably adapting themselves quickly to the global warming! Once more, a polar bear ate few bamboo sticks showing for instance where is the Black Iceberg, or where are the moorings on land, used before the sea ice formation. The fifth visitor within 4 days stayed around for about 5 hours this morning, but didn't insist when he received a nice red flare.

Posted Jan 2006 19 at 11:50 [en - fr]

Tue, 17 Jan 2006, Record

According to Torgeir, weather man in Longyearbyen, "we reached the highest January temperature since the airport was built (30 years ago), as the thermometer reached +7,7 degrees on Monday in Longyearbyen (+3 degrees at Vagabond). It is a little funny to compare with the normal temperature in July, which is +5,9 degrees..."

Posted Jan 2006 17 at 22:35 [en - fr]

Tue, 17 Jan 2006, Ourson bondissant

It was a nice show this morning. Warned by Imiaq barking, I could watch a female polar bear and her cub, coming slowly towards us. They didn't like the search light, the female was already going away, followed by her cub jumping around. They just forgot to stand for a picture.

Posted Jan 2006 17 at 11:01 [en - fr]

Sun, 15 Jan 2006, Pleine lune

Lows are following each other, barometer and thermometer are going up and down, but between 2 snow squalls, the moon is serenely coming to light. Then I must get the chance for a walk with the dogs, for instance to look for the close icebergs trapped in sea ice, like Vagabond. They are replacing the ones from last winter, gone drifting away during the summer time, and are sometimes used as a rest place by polar bears. Or as an ice climbing site by 4 Gallic in need for exercise, as shown by this victory marker left at the top of the Black Iceberg by the previous crew. From the boat, I can hear the swell, open water is only few kilometers away. Waves, despite the 80 cm of ice pack covering Inglefield Bay, are reaching the hull which is moving and bumping gently in her ice bed. On board, the small technical problems are finding their solutions, inventories are about to be finished, already one week I'm back on board...

Posted Jan 2006 15 at 12:51 [en - fr]

Tue, 10 Jan 2006, Cairn

At 8 o'clock this morning, a polar bear damaged the ice cairn and the igloo. The dogs barked before, the search light and a flare were enough to scare him away. The welcoming committee didn't wait long since I'm back on board, but the previous crew never saw any polar bear during the last 3 weeks!

Posted Jan 2006 10 at 19:39 [en - fr]

Mon, 09 Jan 2006, Solo

When I went out from the plane, Friday in Longyearbyen, it was raining! With help from Torgeir (weather man), Jarl (Norwegian Polar Institute) and Sébastien (UNIS), I collected quickly warm clothes, snowmobile, sledge, rifle, food... and we left with Stig's caterpillar truck on Saturday evening. This machine is slow and noisy, but can carry up to 16 passengers sitting in warm. For Stig, Mark (co-pilot), Sébastien (UNIS) and me, it was a 12 hours trip to reach Vagabond. Few problems with the snowmobile, which was then towed but could not escape rolling over 2 or 3 times, also problems with the engine of the snow truck. Warm reunion on board, and I was glad to see the 3 dogs again. Marc first showed me the great emergency igloo he designed, nearby the ice cairn built by Dominique and Hervé from Savoie. Marie prepared a punch, a bread and a Breton cake, making a nice meal with the Swiss fondue that Sébastien brought with him. 4 hours of sleep for everyone, a last team pictur e, and the snow truck left in the darkness. I'm now alone on board, until the end of the polar night, end of February. I first wanted to call France, to share these first moments with her. I will need few days to find my marks again, but the sky is clearing up, the moon light is showing this familiar landscape, a northern light is dancing at south, and the dogs are happy.

Posted Jan 2006 09 at 14:31 [en - fr]

Mon, 02 Jan 2006, Consommée

Earthlings,

The year 2005 is consumed.

The attack of the Black Iceberg started.

Let us hope to finish the job for 2006.

With the menu of the midnight supper:

- den of bear,

- aurora borealis,

- Medoc confined meadows of the stove,

- home made foie gras,

- keen parts of scrabble,

- long sleep to be enjoyed...

Fraternity and hello to all humanity.

Posted Jan 2006 02 at 09:41 [en - fr]