"The most beautiful present: to be here ! There’s still another fifteen days to make the most of the luck to be on Vagabond. Our Christmas carols had been the orchestra of the nature: a strong blizzard blowing in gusts. It didn’t stop and still blows at the moment. We had to clear the kennels filled by the snow but the dogs often prefers staying outside rolling themselves into a ball, in that way, the layer of snow insulates them against the cold. We are waiting a better weather to resume the ice measurements on the ice floe. We are beginning to think about our return in our everyday life and we already know that it will be enriched by this unique experience giving us a real impetus. What a lot of things to talk about and to share. But for moment, we have just to enjoy!" Amélie

Posted Dec 2008 28 at 09:10 [en - fr]

Thu, 25 Dec 2008, Voeux

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all, Nael, Amélie and Hervé

Posted Dec 2008 25 at 18:41 [en - fr]

Wed, 24 Dec 2008, Icebergs à Daoulas !

Nael, Amélie and Hervé are getting ready to celebrate Christmas on board Vagabond, in the middle of the polar night. Meanwhile, Léonie, France and me discovered few lost icebergs in Brittany... Merry Christmas to all of you ! Eric

Posted Dec 2008 24 at 09:44 [en - fr]

Tue, 23 Dec 2008, Un Noël pas comme les autres

"A very special Christmas. On Vagabond, I am preparing Christmas’s day with dad and mum. I have asked to the dogs to yap as soon as they will see Father Christmas, like that, I perhaps could see him. I am lucky because his house must be close by. We have decorated inside, and because there isn’t any tree in Spitsbergen, we have made a cardboard one, and France and Eric let us some tinsels. We are going to prepare a good meal and to make a big chocolate cake. There’s a lot of snow here, the boat is still in the ice and I go with dad and mum on pack ice to measure the thickness of the snow and ice. Now I can write all the letters from the alphabet and I can read some words. I also write to my school friends with mum. I am very happy to be here and to do so many things. Happy Christmas to everybody!!!" Nael (5 years old)

Posted Dec 2008 23 at 00:42 [en - fr]

Wed, 17 Dec 2008, Le plaisir de marcher sur la glace

"The pleasure of walking on the ice. In this white, quiet, pure nature, never all our senses have been so lively. For example, it's amazing to feel how different is the sound of our steps on the ice, depending on its appearance and on the snow fallen. It can be a creak or on the contrary a rustling. In fact, sensations change every day and this is the same for all the other senses. At the moment, the weather is calm and before decreasing again, temperatures have been surprisingly high (+2°C), even bringing some raindrop. Every other days, we move away from the boat walking for some hundreds meters in order to do some ice measurements. Arrived to an exact point, we make a hole with an ice drill, to measure the ice thickness and the snow one. We follow a line on witch there is five holes each 50 meters. Then, data are sent to the Polar Institute in Tromso. What a satisfaction to mix work with pleasure!" Amélie

Posted Dec 2008 17 at 12:33 [en - fr]

Thu, 11 Dec 2008, Un festival de lumière

"A festival of light. Just imagine: the snow sparkling on the ground, a clear starry sky, the crescent moon and all around us a red and green curtain of light moving, changing forms. Polar lights are one of the most beautiful sight giving by the nature. They come from solar eruptions and those particles in the form of dust soaks by the Hallen's shield witch is the magnetic shield of the earth. This is a amazing sight that you can admire without never tiring. We are lucky because it's unusual to see this phenomena when the moon appears and we had it during three days! We don't hesitate to go outside during the night to make pictures or just for pleasure. We enjoy walking on the ice floe lighted up and since few days we take more measurements of ice. Inside, Nael has begun to put in Christmas decorations he made himself. It's a feast for the eyes everywhere!" Amélie

Posted Dec 2008 11 at 17:42 [en - fr]

Tue, 09 Dec 2008, Vagabond et l'homme pressé

Echange avec Thomas Coville, en course autour du monde sur Sodebo.

Posted Dec 2008 09 at 01:32 [en - fr]

Tue, 02 Dec 2008, Blizzard aveuglant

"Blinding blizzard. During four days we have looked around for our usual landmarks: nothing! The tent and dogs kennels had disappeared. There was only a gale-force wind swirling the snow in a deafening noise. This blizzard burns the face and it's difficult to keep eyes opened. We had to stop the windmill because of a force 8 gale. In that case, we go ashore only to feed dogs and to check that there is no problem with the tent. We are from a small Atlantic island, so we know well about storms, and in a way we can say they exhilarate us. Here, the difference is the lost of visual landmarks. But however destabilizing it is, this force of the nature is really bewitching. Even if we don't know how many days that will go on and that the ice floe could be broken by this storm, we feel secure on board Vagabond still immobilized in its frozen setting." Amélie and Hervé

Posted Dec 2008 02 at 13:09 [en - fr]

Wed, 26 Nov 2008, Entre chien et loup

"Between dog and wolf. In French, this expression means the twilight. We have this kind of light during few hours far away in the south, when the sky is clear until two o'clock in the afternoon. So the night is not always completely dark. We can see mountains outlined in the sky. The landscape changes every days depending on the fallen snow, the wind or the colour of the sky and the night intensity. We never feel alone because there is so much to do, to contemplate, to learn, to meditate. A difficult thing to explain is the notion of time, different of the one living in the society. In fact, if we shouldn't have computer or logbook, we should lost the notion of dates. And often, during the day, I wonder what time it is. Passing hours are neither more or less long but different, this is the Arctic time. We are just living at the pace of the nature and it's a great chance!" Amélie

Posted Nov 2008 26 at 10:24 [en - fr]

Fri, 21 Nov 2008, Pas de routine, seulement quelques habitudes

"No routine, only a few habits. Some people wonders how our days are occupied. So, after an hearty breakfast, the first thing done is to send the weather report to Longyearbyen’s airport. Then, we devote ourself to writing emails, articles or our logbook. While Nael’s doing his school work, the interior is cleaned up. We also have to sweep the back deck to avoid it freezing. We can go and get some ice or snow to the stock of water in cans. We do some ice measurements too. We have to feed the dogs and we devote a little time to them. On board, there’s always some work to do: DIY, sewing, cooking… Thanks to the diesel stove, the temperature is about 15 degrees and we cook on it too. The generator is running two hours a day and the windmill supply to the electric requirement. And we use candles to save it. After diner, we watch films, read or write. For sure, we are living every moment to the full but time’s going by very quickly!" Amélie et Hervé

Posted Nov 2008 21 at 19:00 [en - fr]

Tue, 18 Nov 2008, L'heure du silence

"No more sound, no more movement: all is motionless around us since the full moon appeared to light up the bay. There's only during the day the song of dogs in unison in the style of wolfs and the sound of the windmill rotating more or less quickly. Even the glacier, as a giant being petrified by the cold, is now silent. So, we have passed from a sailor lifestyle to a polar one, exchanging our rubber boots for some big and insulating ones. The ice is now thick enough (about 20 cm) to walk on with no risk. With the formed pack ice, polar bears, which we saw every days, unfortunately are becoming scarce and we see one from time to time only. Otherwise, we have found our rhythm and for the moment, to live in the polar night isn't a real problem, and certainly not for Nael who sleeps round the clock every night!" Amélie

Posted Nov 2008 18 at 12:45 [en - fr]

Wed, 12 Nov 2008, Ma première "expédition"

"My name is Nael, I'm five. To be on Vagabond is my first expedition with dad and mum. Around us, there are some mountains, a glacier. I see a lot of bears and one day, during a walk, one followed us and when he saw us closer, he quickly ran away. I saw an Arctic fox too, running at the edge of the fjord. On land, I ski, I play with snow. I like to take care of dogs and at mealtimes, we have to tell them to seat down and to wait. Imiak is the greedier, Frost always gives me cuddles. On board, I do some school work, I draw, do DIY, cook and sweep up the snow on the deck. I like to learn sailor's things as knots for example. I'm happy to be here because the landscape is so nice. Sometimes, I miss my family and Belle my dog, I would like to eat some fries made by granny. The most beautiful thing that I see is polar lights, it's like magic..." Nael

Posted Nov 2008 12 at 14:40 [en - fr]

Tue, 11 Nov 2008, Perte du ballon météo

The weather balloon has been lost. Strong wind started while doing weather sounding: Amélie and Hervé managed to bring back the balloon in the tent, but when closing the tent, a draught suddenly took the balloon away... They are very sad and disappointed.

Posted Nov 2008 11 at 17:40 [en - fr]

Thu, 06 Nov 2008, Un mois

Partie du petit port de Longyearbyen au Spitzberg il y a tout juste un mois, la petite famille se familiarise jour après jour avec un environnement sauvage. 120 km/h de vent, l'ancre entraînée par le pack de glace et le bateau qui se retrouve alors à quelques mètres de la côte, voilà une des nuits agitées que peut vivre le petit équipage du voilier polaire Vagabond. Heureusement, le calme revient aussi vite que la tempête est arrivée et tout est maintenant rentré dans l'ordre. Au fond de la baie d'Inglefield, à l'Est de l'archipel, le bateau est de nouveau ancré à cinquante mètres du rivage. Il est tantôt pris dans la glace, tantôt en eau libre, la banquise n'étant pas encore complètement formée. L'ennui et la solitude ne sont pas de mise dans cet endroit pourtant situé à deux jours à pied du premier endroit habité. Et pour cause, en trois semaines, ce n'est pas moins d'une trentaine d'ours blancs qui sont passés parfois à quelques dizaines de mèt res du bateau. Curieux avant tout, ils ne montrent pas de comportement agressif mais chaque déplacement se fait néanmoins armé d'un fusil et de pétards dans les poches afin de les éloigner au cas où ils se montreraient trop entreprenants envers les chiens ou le matériel disposé sur la berge. Pour Hervé, Amélie et Nael, âgé de cinq ans, les journées s'organisent suivant la météo. Au programme, si le vent est très faible : expérience scientifique à l'aide d'un ballon sonde muni de capteurs, qui est envoyé à environ 1500 mètres d'altitude. Sinon, les trois aventuriers se baladent à ski tractés par un ou deux chiens et ce, tant que la lumière du jour le permet. En effet, depuis le 28 octobre la nuit polaire s'est installée sur la région et la lumière n'est présente en ce moment que de dix heures à quinze heures. Les températures actuelles oscillent entre -10 et -15 °C et après une journée à l'extérieur, il fait bon retrouver l'atmosphère chaleu reuse du carré. Certains petits rituels sont déjà en place comme chaque matin, l'envoi du relevé météo ou les deux heures quotidiennes d'activité scolaire pour Nael. Selon le petit garçon, le plus extraordinaire est le spectacle grandiose des aurores boréales : lumières vertes, magiques, qui animent le ciel les nuits de beau temps.

Posted Nov 2008 06 at 17:18 [en - fr]

Thu, 06 Nov 2008, Quand la baie d'Inglefield se transforme en marmite bouillonnante.

"When Inglefieldbukta has turned into a foaming pot. Six days ago, during the night, a gale force wind and a dense pack ice made the anchor loose. The boat came close to shore. We went powerless to do anything faced with the power of nature, waves and ice pieces covering a big part of the moraine. Dogs had their paws wet, surprised to see the boat so closed to them. We had waited the rising tide to start engines and we had been lucky to manage to get the boat out of this very delicate situation. The next day, several hours have been necessary to put the mooring in order again. Shortly after, an another gust of wind, but from the other direction, let the pack cleared away at an incredible speed. For the moment, all is calm in Inglefieldbukta. We are taking advantage to have a bit of rest preparing ourself to live some new adventures." Amélie and Hervé

Posted Nov 2008 06 at 14:42 [en - fr]

Thu, 30 Oct 2008, Apprendre à marcher sur des oeufs

"Waiting the thick ice, there're different possibilities to rally the dry land. We get more or less time according to options. First one is very easy with the open water. We just have to follow the rope from the boat to the shore. That becomes complicated when the young ice is formed, not enough solid to walk on it but dense enough to prevent the dinghy to go ahead. In this case, the distance of fifty meters as far as Vagabond can become very long. We have to pull, to push, to break the ice with a pickaxe. The third way requires a lot of caution. Dressed with a waterproof suit, we walk very slowly on the ice, pulling the dinghy with Nael on board. No icy bath for the moment! Then, we see bears passing close to us with their kindly and confident walk. The first light comes at 10 AM and disappear at 3 PM. In any case, our days are organised according to the weather. We do soundings with the balloon when the wind is weak and otherwise, we widen little and little the perimete r of our walks with dogs, admiring some majestic landscapes." Amélie and Hervé

Posted Oct 2008 30 at 10:32 [en - fr]

Thu, 23 Oct 2008, En attendant la nuit polaire

"In five days, the sun will completely disappear on Inglefieldbukta. But for the last two days, the sun is offering us its beautiful presence. After being in a trough of low pressure with a lot of wind and a cloudy sky, we have taken advantage of a good weather to do a first atmospheric sounding with the big red balloon until an altitude of 1300 meters. This day had finished a bit late and we were a bit cold to have been static all the day to supervise the experiment but coming back onboard, a grandiose polar light covering the sky from the north to the south, welcomed us. Today, we are skiing with dogs. Last time, we have seen close to us a curious bear witch had quickly gone back hearing Nael's laugh..." Amélie

Posted Oct 2008 23 at 19:06 [en - fr]

Tue, 21 Oct 2008, Petit déjeuner arctique

"Six invités surprise hier à l'heure du petit déjeuner : café et céréales pour nous, phoque à volonté pour deux ours rejoints rapidement par deux autres congénères puis par une mère et son petit. Nous sommes bien sûr restés à regarder cette scène exceptionnelle, caméra et appareil photo au poing. Le festin terminé, les ours sont repartis nonchalamment chacun de leur côté sauf un qui est resté à quelques dizaines de mètres du bateau jusqu'à la nuit tombante. Durant celle-ci, la lune veille pour l'instant sur Vagabond nous donnant un avant goût de la nuit polaire qui va s'installer dans quelques jours maintenant. Pour l'heure, nous profitons du jour pour partir à la découverte du « jardin » que Léonie nous fait partager durant trois mois. Nael, notre petit garçon, n'est pas le seul à le découvrir avec ses yeux d'enfant, nous sommes en fait trois bambins, émerveillés par la beauté de ce qui nous entoure. Malgré ce que l'on pourrait croire au premier abord rien n'est figé et chaque jour nous offre un spectacle nouveau. Tout en nous adaptant à notre nouvel environnement, nous avons porté beaucoup d'attention à l'amarrage du bateau qui représente avant tout sa sécurité en cette période d'embâcle. En effet, tous les deux jours environ, au gré des vents et des marées, la glace vient dans la baie ou en repart. Nous rejoignons donc la côte en annexe, soit à la rame soit en utilisant une amarre qui nous permet de nous hisser sur la glace. Les cinq chiens sur la berge guettent attentivement nos allers et venues, attendant l'heure de la balade ou du repas. La présence de ces compagnons attachants est rassurante, et Zagrey, chien de Sibérie, est le spécialiste de l'avertissement quand un ours s'approche. La tente installée récemment titille en effet leur curiosité et nous veillons à ce qu'ils restent à une distance respectable des chiens et du matériel. Nous sommes tous les trois seuls à bord depuis p lus d'une semaine maintenant. Il faut bien dire que le rythme de nos journées n'est pas encore tout à fait régulier, mais rien ne presse. Nael a tout de même droit à ses quelques pages d'écriture ou d'activité scolaire avant d'aller s'amuser dans la neige fraîchement tombée." Amélie et Hervé

Posted Oct 2008 21 at 08:00 [en - fr]

Fri, 17 Oct 2008, Premières nouvelles d'Hervé

"Un fort vent de nord-est a enlevé les glaçons de la baie, mais a aussi fait déraper l'ancre. Nous avons remouillé mais étions encore loin des chiens, surtout que la tente a l'air d'attirer les ours : un s'est approché à moins de 4 mètres hier, j'ai été obligé de tirer car il n'était pas impressionné du tout par les chiens. Lundi, nous avons eu 7 passages dont deux ours qui sont restés a proximité durant deux nuits, Zagrey n'a plus de voix... Nous avons commencé à amarrer le bateau à terre, mais le brash est revenu, rendant difficile les manoeuvres d'aussières. Tout va bien, la tente a tenu au vent d'est et nous apprenons à cohabiter avec les ours. C'est merveilleux de pouvoir les voir d'aussi près, même si parfois c'est impressionnant (comme dit Nael)." Hervé

Posted Oct 2008 17 at 08:23 [en - fr]

Tue, 14 Oct 2008, Seuls pour 3 mois

While I was giving the last instructions, Friday morning, a polar bear was passing along the shore, peacefully. Dogs saw him before and, happily, could get him away from the big tent newly set up, which will soon protect the helium balloon for weather soundings. While the polar bear was sleeping close by, Alan and I left Vagabond, quietly. Some seal remains were showing that the animal was full! 3 days of walk were needed to reach the coal mine of Svea. First to cross the 3 glaciers Inglefield, Nordsyssel, and Edvard, well covered with snow but with many small rivers still running, amazingly for the season (very unpleasant freezing footbaths...). Then to go down the long and large Kjellstrom valley. Ice, bare, was then thick enough to walk on it, although it was very impressive to hear and see water running below our feet! No more snow there, blown away by the wind. Sunday evening, Alan and I met the civilised world again... On board Vagabond, Hervé, Amélie and Nael are alone for almost 3 months.

Posted Oct 2008 14 at 00:28 [en - fr]

Tue, 07 Oct 2008, Début du 5ème hivernage !

It took about 30 hours to cover the last 300 meters. When we arrived Sunday morning at Inglefield Bay, after a very nice trip from Hornsund, ice was too thick and too hard to reach the usual mooring position. Vagabond was suck. Dogs could be taken down to shore on foot, very excited to found their dog houses again, and to smell polar bears, which we saw only very new tracks so far. While coming back to the boat, ice broke up under Amélie's feet, and Hervé's suit was getting water inside! Our replacing team has been quickly baptised. The next day in the afternoon, some leads in pack ice allowed us to force our way through, breaking up 15 to 20 cm of ice, engines at high speed. The anchor was dropped for more than 9 months, and now Vagabond is slowly becoming a hut.

Posted Oct 2008 07 at 08:51 [en - fr]

Fri, 03 Oct 2008, Chez les polonais

Late 1st October night, while it was snowing, Vagabond set sails, heavily loaded, with 5 people and 5 dogs on board. We have been waiting for departure, and everyone was happy to see the lights of Longyearbyen getting away. Last night, we found our way in between drifting ice blocks and dropped anchor in front of the Hornsund polish station. Warm welcoming and very friendly time with the 9 people winter team. Weather should be good tomorrow to round South Cape and to reach Storfjord.

Posted Oct 2008 03 at 19:25 [en - fr]

Tue, 30 Sep 2008, En attendant le cargo...

Norbjorn is 2 days late, because of very bad weather north of Norway. Vagabond and her crew are waiting the supply ship to load the last provisions and fill up diesel, before sailing to the East coast of Spitsbergen. Alan joined us yesterday: for 2 weeks he left the French station in Ny-Alesund, that he is leading for a bit more than a year.

Posted Sep 2008 30 at 20:48 [en - fr]

Tue, 23 Sep 2008, Nouvelle équipe

Léonie and Nael (5 years old) would have enjoyed playing longer together... But it was time for France and Léonie to leave Longyearbyen and to go back to Brittany. Will be back on board in January 2009. In the meantime, Amélie and Hervé, Nael's parents, will look after Vagabond. For now, we are doing together the last many preparations, before leaving Longyearbyen next Monday. We will be heading for Inglefieldbukta, our usual mooring location on the East Coast of Spitsbergen, for a fifth wintering. Mid-October, once the sail boat will be set up for the winter and after giving all instructions, I will leave Vagabond's camp to our substitutes, and to the 5 dogs, for 3 months. Hervé, captain of Tara on holidays on board Vagabond, has a lot of experience! And he is also willing to share family life on pack ice.

Posted Sep 2008 23 at 15:01 [en - fr]

Tue, 16 Sep 2008, Départ de Ny-Alesund

After 3 weeks of work, with some parties and unusual trips, Léonie, France and I, with Zagrey, Jin and Frost, are about to leave Ny-Alesund. Heading to Longyearbyen for the last preparations before wintering, and to welcome the crew replacing us for the first part of the polar night.

Posted Sep 2008 16 at 19:56 [en - fr]

Thu, 04 Sep 2008, Neige

New snow this morning at Ny-Alesund! Image from the webcam (the harbour is in the centre of the picture).

Posted Sep 2008 04 at 17:40 [en - fr]

Wed, 03 Sep 2008, Vagabond réparé

Wih the help of the same big machine and also 2 powerful boats, Vagabond could leave the beach and go back to the sea. Repaired and newly painted, she is floating again! The local team has been enthusiastic and efficient, Vagabond can now go on her route and look after the given assignments.

Posted Sep 2008 03 at 17:07 [en - fr]

Fri, 29 Aug 2008, Vagabond au sec à Ny-Alesund

Not long after midnight, at high tide, Vagabond was hauled up onto the beach with help from a mechanical shovel and few people from the scientific base of Ny-Alesund. Our proud ship has not been on land like this since spring 2004. Now she set up for 3 or 4 days in front of marine biology laboratory, time to check carefully the hull, after 4 winters frozen in ice. We mainly want to repair the leaks from the cages protecting the propellers, lightly pulled out by ice during the last winter. For these few days, we set up on land, at the IPEV station.

Posted Aug 2008 29 at 15:52 [en - fr]

Tue, 26 Aug 2008, Etude des sources d'eau chaude

An excellent scientific mission is finishing. 3 Italians, one Dutch, and one French journalist, came on board Vagabond for 8 days, to study the only known warm springs in the archipelago. The biologists have been sounding carefully Troll and Jotun, at the end of Bock fjord, in the north of Spitsbergen. Water is coming out in various springs, at almost 30°C for the warmest. Nothing very impressive, but a flora that seems suddenly very luxuriant in this Arctic environment. The many samples also allowed to identify some small amazing fauna. We stopped again at Linda's hut, on our way back, and then we met quite a lot of drifting ice. But not enough to stop Vagabond! For the next 3 weeks, we will be at Ny-Alesund scientific station, preparing Vagabond for the next winter in Storfjord.

Posted Aug 2008 26 at 20:02 [en - fr]

Wed, 20 Aug 2008, Chez Linda, trappeur pour un an

Linda set up in Mushamna for a year. Her boyfriend will join her in a few weeks to share the long winter, at the very north of Sptisbergen. Every year, the governor is giving this trapper's house to a couple of volunteers. They have to carry on the traditional way of life of trappers. Linda prepared for us an omelet with Eider ducks eggs, gave some seal meat to our dog Zagrey, and offered us few fishes just out of the sea. Delicious stop! The camp will soon be covered with snow, the drift wood is already cut and burning in the stove.

Posted Aug 2008 20 at 00:14 [en - fr]

Fri, 15 Aug 2008, Escale à Longyearbyen

After few more days of sailing in the fjords close to Longyearbyen, the little capital of the archipelago, Vagabond is getting ready to embark 4 scientists and a journalist. The stop was also the opportunity to meet the team of an amazing hovercraft, designed for arctic oceanography. A fast machine that should avoid some research projects to charter an expensive ice-breaker, to work on pack ice. First snow is already covering the mountains, and the sun is getting closer and closer to the horizon, in the middle of the night. Autumn is coming!

Posted Aug 2008 15 at 09:38 [en - fr]

Fri, 08 Aug 2008, Cabotage estival

We are choosing our stops depending on the weather, and according to what we wish to discover. We want to enjoy the short sailing period as much as possible. Vagabond is frozen in ice from October to July, and summer doesn't last long: it was snowing yesterday, in the northern part of the island... Wind was more than 80 km/h, Vagabond was pulling hard on her mooring! But today, the weather was great, the crew could watch very well about 15 walruses, and meet with coast-guards, who came to get a fishing net lying on the beach. Dangerous for local animals.

Posted Aug 2008 08 at 01:55 [en - fr]

Sat, 02 Aug 2008, Morse et éclipse

Vagabond is at Longyearbyen. Today, the little capital is disappearing in the fog. Luckily, the sky was clear yesterday and we could watch the solar eclipse (93% in Longyearbyen). We were having a subdued light for while, strange feeling in this period of permanent day light! Coincidence or not, a walrus set up on the beach down the old peer. During 2 days, he got many visitors who probably pushed him to finish his siesta. Walrus population is increasing at Spitsbergen, they usually gather in small colonies.

Posted Aug 2008 02 at 20:17 [en - fr]

Tue, 29 Jul 2008, Echoué devant le glacier Sefström !

After 2 days stop in Longyearbyen, Vagabond sailed again for some coasting in the surroundings. While 3 of or dogs are watching a kayaker's camp on the other side of the fjord, Zagrey is enjoying the summer with us: 5 children and 5 adults on board! Not long after 2 pm today, our ship was driven on a shoal, not written on maps, and not visible because there is so much Old Red in the water. Waiting for high tide, the crew is walking ashore, kayaking or simply looking at the great view we have on the glacier Sefström. There is like a holiday atmosphere on board...

Posted Jul 2008 29 at 19:38 [en - fr]

Wed, 23 Jul 2008, Retour à la civilisation

With a peaceful navigation along the west coast of Spitsbergen, 2 stops at Hornsund and Fridtjovhamna could allow us to meet up with Algol. The beautiful boat of our friend Jean-Baptiste didn't come back to the archipelago since 1984! On board, transported from France for us, 2 big rolls of mooring rope and part of the food for next winter! We are now at Longyearbyen, 2000 people, capital of Svalbard. Temperature +10°C, no wind and perfect blue sky. It is always strange to come back here with Vagabond, after more than 9 months of a still isolation. The relative agitation is surprising us again this year.

Posted Jul 2008 23 at 16:28 [en - fr]

Fri, 18 Jul 2008, Escale à Isbukta

Yesterday at 2 in the morning, the anchor was up at least. The 4 dogs were on board, and Vagabond was sailing South. We left behind us 6 cairns, showing the land anchorages, 4 dog houses, filled up with stones, and the small hut full of equipment. Next to this hut, a weather mast, still recording. This will all be useful when we will come back in October, for the fifth wintering. Pushed with a strong northerly wind, our crew anchored yesterday afternoon at Isbukta, waiting for better conditions to go around the south tip of Spitsbergen.

Posted Jul 2008 18 at 18:05 [en - fr]

Wed, 16 Jul 2008, Position de Vagabond

Vagabond's position is here

Posted Jul 2008 16 at 19:35 [en - fr]

Tue, 15 Jul 2008, Dernier jour avant de quitter le site d'hivernage

Vagabond is free since 13th July (with the passing winterings, dates of liberation from ice were quite constant: 13th July 2005, 15th July 2006, 7th July 2007, 13th July 2008). And since last night, engines are running again. We will pull up the sails more serenely. In case of drifting ice or if no wind, we will still handle the boat! Now we need to finish changing our hut into a sail boat, while the passing polar bears are looking on. Not a day without a visit. This morning, when we were all busy on the deck, one of them was walking on the beach, less then 20 m from us. Surprised, he sat down to better observe us, but he didn't take out his camera...

Posted Jul 2008 15 at 23:15 [en - fr]

Fri, 11 Jul 2008, Voilier polaire en panne

The way is almost clear! But for now, Vagabond is not able to find her way through the last ice floes. Her engines don't start, apparently they didn't like the long sea water bath, when we found holes in the hull last April. We are still trying to repair with what we have on board, before may be deciding to go under sail only. Difficult decision: winds are capricious in the Arctic, and at the end of the fourth wintering, rigging, ropes, sails and fittings should be used very carefully.

Posted Jul 2008 11 at 15:09 [en - fr]

Wed, 09 Jul 2008, Tempête en cours

Strong gusts up to 100 km/h. We are watching some remains of pack ice speeding along, but few hectares of ice are still blocking Vagabond. And protecting her from swell. Wind has been bad since last night and we are happy that we could enjoy a quiet and splendid sun to achieve scientific work: sea ice thickness measurements, dismantling radiometers, weather sounding with the helium balloon (quickly deflated just before the storm). Hunting field has been reduced: 4 polar bears were seen this morning, including a female with her 2 cubs, not far from the boat.

Posted Jul 2008 09 at 16:40 [en - fr]

Fri, 04 Jul 2008, Impossible par la mer

After one week of effort, drifting ice stopped Albarquel. The old boat's crew, although very determined to get as close as possible to Vagabond, had to turn and go back, even before passing south cape of Spitsbergen. Then I got ready to cross the island on foot, from the mine of Svea: a hike that looked to be quite hazardous, because of snow melting. But luckily, Wednesday night, a helicopter could be chartered at the last minute from Svea! So the whole family could go, also with Rémy Marion (polar bears specialist photographer). We flew over muddy rivers and slyly cracked glaciers... until Vagabond, separated by 12 km of ice with open water. Only just informed about our arrival, Sébastien was waiting for us on the beach. He had looked after our amazing hut for one and a half month. Quick greetings and the helicopter took him back to civilisation, with his dog Tundra. This morning, westerly wind pushed away most of fast ice, and blue sea is now at less than 3 km from Va gabond. Tens of seals and some polar bears are enjoying pack ice still around us.

Posted Jul 2008 04 at 20:55 [en - fr]

Mon, 30 Jun 2008, Patience, patience!

Patience! No other behaviour would be better at the moment in this part of the white world. Here nature has the supreme monopole on the elements. No differences between wintertime when planning a scooter trip or summertime when getting ready for a sailing trip, from town all departures are well respected. Hardly the arrivals. Albarquel had to sail back right before South Cap of Spitsbergen because of the strong winds. She got a shelter in Hornsund. After several days, the ketch is finally about to leave again. At the same time, some of the ice in Storfjord broke up. Sailing far for the drifting pack will be her challenge. In Inglefieldbukta, I keep waiting and enjoy that the polar bears are coming back. It's like watching a local TV. Live transmission! Does this come back announce a soon breaking-up? +1.4°C inside my binoculars (Sébastien Barrault)

Posted Jun 2008 30 at 18:17 [en - fr]

Sun, 29 Jun 2008, Ça sent les écuries!

Home, sweet home! France, Eric and Léonie left Longyearbyen on board Albarquel on Tuesday end of afternoon. This ketch was in the old days used for salt transportation along the Portuguese coast. Now she is heading south of Spitsbergen before entering in Storfjorden. Ice conditions are not ideal. The sea ice is still dense in the north-west part of the fjord. The sailing yacht might sail along the west coast of Edgeøya and Barentsøya. She will land most likely at about 30 km from Vagabond early this weekend. If the ice is safe enough, the crew will be transferred on it. The forecasted winds might not break the sea ice soon. At the moment the ice is like a puzzle. The main piece which keeps all together is hidden among many floes. If this little piece could detach, the sea ice could break up over several kilometres in a couple of hours only. +2.1°C when dreaming about a warm shower (Sébastien Barrault)

Posted Jun 2008 29 at 18:24 [en - fr]

Tue, 24 Jun 2008, Sacré farceur !

Franchement je ne l’inviterais plus. D’abord on l’attendait près de 4 mois. Une absence remarquée. Puis il se pointait timidement au plus froid de l’hiver, se faisant même longuement désirer. Et quand venait le jour de le célébrer, tout beau et tout chaud qu’il était, il se faisait la belle pour retrouver sa résidence du sud. En ce 21 juin, le soleil était à l’apogée... de sa farce. Il préparait sa nouvelle fugue alors que les glaces et la neige retrouvent à peine un aspect plus liquide. Comme partout en Scandinavie, on s’était mis à son heure, celle des réjouissances. A Inglefieldbukta, on avait sorti Maurice pour l’occasion. Et oui, il n’y a pas de fête sans ballon ! Puis la plaisanterie frappait une fois de trop. Car celui qui avait la gueule de bois, c’était lui encore ! Tempête de neige et de grêlons au réveil. Méfiez-vous de sa prochaine blague: le 1er août prochain vers midi au Svalbard, il s’éclipsera totalement derrière les rondeurs de la lune… (Sébastien Barrault)

Posted Jun 2008 24 at 12:22 [en - fr]

Fri, 20 Jun 2008, Quand l'ours est touriste et le phoque nudiste

Côte Est du Spitsberg ou Côte d'Azur, c'est du pareil au même. A l'arrivée des beaux jours, tout est prêt. Même à Inglefield-Plage. La glace dans l'immense sorbetière (et il y en a à gogo), les glaciers, les montagnes... un authentique concentré d'exotisme. Il y a même un voilier dans la baie. Ici l'offre est unique : tous ceux du coin, tous à poil, et un brin grassouillets, se languissent déjà en surface prêts à offrir leur chair au premier venu. Comme chaque début de vacances, on fait grise mine quand les jours maussades s'attardent. Et premier bilan mensuel : où sont donc les touristes ? Seul 0.34 % des voyageurs attendus s'est pressé d'un pas amblé sur la côte, soit 12 sur les 3500 recensés au Svalbard. C'est bien peu. On annonce le beau et la mer fraîche. Tant mieux! Les glaçons ont déjà été commandés pour la prochaine saison. +1.2°C sous le parasol (Sébastien Barrault)

Posted Jun 2008 20 at 23:46 [en - fr]

Wed, 18 Jun 2008, Ma bulle vagabonde

In my red and white metallic bubble, I'm wandering. My silent fight against ice breaking up started. I'm loosing everyday a little bit more of my freedom... let's say, from land. But I'm getting another one. Not a spiritual one. No mysticism: I've been isolated on the East Coast, but for only 4 weeks. I cannot remake my own world in such a short time. At least I broke myself of using hours and minutes. What a privilege! It is not necessary to follow the sun. He also lost his sleep. My days are not longer, but they last more. My diurnal cycle got 3 hours more. To be "Vagabond" may also means to be able to stop clock's tick-tock. Eating slowly, forgetting oneself reading or working... and sometimes hurrying up to do nothing. +0.8°C at the end of my 12th book. (transl. EB)

Posted Jun 2008 18 at 23:46 [en - fr]

Fri, 13 Jun 2008, Les pirates de l’Arctique

A special companion joined East Coast animal life few days ago: Arctic tern. This tireless bird is coming straight from the Antarctic, almost non stop (I have respect for him only for that). To tell the truth, I'm not welcoming him with great pleasure. He is part of Arctic pirates. First is the pack ice pirate: the polar bear, unpredictable killer. "Ice adventurers, be careful!". Then the sea pirate: the walrus, audacious destroyer. "Kayakers, be careful!". Then the air pirate: the Arctic tern. "Arm yourself!". This little bird, loudmouthed and tough, can make a hole in your skull till it bleeds to protect his nest on the bare ground. From now on, I will go out with a very special weapon... a wooden stick above my head on which the flying bawler will persist. The clever anti-tern has certainly some weakness, and a major one, it cannot protect from droppings... Temperature: +3,8°C at hostage-taking (transl. EB)

Posted Jun 2008 13 at 23:57 [en - fr]

Tue, 10 Jun 2008, C’est beau blec ! (= vraiment mouillé)

I can see 3 steps before ice breaking up: time for "Moon Boots", "ski", then "rubber boots". I'm now between 2nd and 3rd periods. Impossible to leave Vagabond evading gravity laws. Without my skis, I would easily sink up to my knees, wetting up my shoes not so much water proof. That’s putting it mildly: there is water everywhere! And sometimes well hidden under porous and not much load-bearing snow. Vagabond could almost float, if I look how is the sea taking her rights again. Logically, that’s what ought to happen, but the boat is aground on a thick layer of ice. With all that water, liquid, solid as well as gaseous (horizon is becoming leaden with fog), it is hard to imagine that Svalbard is a (arctic) desert. Annual precipitations are sometimes less than 180 mm (650 mm per year average in Paris, editor’s note)! (Sébastien Barrault, transl. EB)

Posted Jun 2008 10 at 17:54 [en - fr]

Fri, 06 Jun 2008, La poésie du désert

In a letter to her brother, Léonie d'Aunet wrote in 1839: "Deserts have their own poetry: sand deserts, ice deserts, it is always infinite solitude, and no voice can talk to soul in a more stirring language". I've been alone on board for the last 7 days. I feel isolation but not solitude. And poetry? Intact! Inglefieldbukta is my haven. Vagabond give me shade and heat, icebergs all around frozen in pack ice are giving me an abundance of water. While my loud mouthed Greenlandic dogs, they know well how to crush the supreme silence of the East Coast. Some episodes of LOST are brightening up my first evenings on my own. Outside, a swallow lost herself in the North! (Sébastien Barrault, transl. EB)

Posted Jun 2008 06 at 18:38 [en - fr]

Thu, 05 Jun 2008, Tassen

Tassen était de la race des chiens polaires, un chien groenlandais pour être plus précis. Je ne suis pas sur de la signification de Tassen, même les norvégiens ne savent pas trop. Pour certains ce nom ne veut rien dire. Pour d'autres il y aurait une idée de "vitesse". Pour l'anecdote, quand ce chien est né il fût appelé "Bamse", qui signifie "ourson". Et son frère "Tassen". Mais comme son Bamse avait la même couleur que les ours polaires, il y a eu confusion et les noms se sont échangés. Amusant. Tassen avait 11 ans mais était encore en pleine forme. On avait même fait un tour à ski ensemble plus tôt dans la journée avant qu'il ne meurt. J'avais noté ses problèmes d'estomac depuis notre arrivée à Vagabond. Ce sont des chiens robustes mais fragiles avec leur estomac. Il peut se retourner facilement. C'est pour cela qu'ils ne doivent pas courir ou produire d'effort tout de suite après avoir mangé. Dans son cas, l'âge avancé aidant, son estomac s'est retourné alors qu'il était sagement attaché à sa place. Ca arrive parfois. Le froid n'y est pour rien (actuellement, avec les températures positives les chiens commencent à souffrir un peu de la chaleur). Pour revenir au Caterpillar, c'est juste un clin d'oil car à Svea le gros bulldozer a été nommé Tassen. Ca m'a toujours amusé car finalement il y avait des similitudes dans les qualités de mon chien et d'une telle machine. Maintenant il y a 5 chiens avec moi. Trois Groenlandais qui appartiennent à Eric et France, un Leica qui était à bord de Tara pendant la dérive dans l'océan glacial arctique et qui profite d'une banquise plus stable, et finalement un Grønsky (comprendre croisement entre un Groenlandais et un Husky), Tundra, ma petite chienne de 4 mois. La relève est assurée ! Ming (un Groenlandais) est repartie avec mon amie Elin, il y a un peu moins d'une semaine. Leurs fonctions sont multiples. Ce sont des chiens de travail. Ils adorent tirer et c'est bien pratique pour se déplacer à ski ou en traîneau. Mais souvent on utilise les chiens pour déplacer de lourdes charges. Un gros Groenlandais peut tirer jusqu'à 35kg. Si la charge est dans une pulka, ça glisse; il peut tirer deux fois plus sans problème. Les Groenlandais sont des chiens puissants mais moins endurants que les Huskies. Comme les Groenlandais ont été croisés avec les loups, ils ont gardé deux choses : le 5ème doigt (ergot), mais ce n'est pas systématique; et leur capacité à gérer l'effort. Le Groenlandais comme le loup saura toujours s'arrêter avant l'épuisement total. Alors qu'un Husky peut courir jusqu'à la mort ! Au Spitzberg, les ours sont nombreux (env. 3500) et les chiens sont bien utiles pour annoncer leur présence. Sur Vagabond, ils me permettent de relâcher l'attention lorsque je travaille tête baissée dehors ou quand je dors. Ensuite c'est l'humain qui prend la relève pour faire partir le visiteur trop curieux avec des cris ou des pétards. Le Leica est un expert. Il arrive à faire fuir les ours seulement en aboyant. Il est vrai que dans cette région les ours ne sont pas affamés et c'est d'avantage la curiosité qui les amène proche du bateau ou des chiens. La dépouille encore chaude de Tassen qui gît au pied d'un iceberg sur la banquise a reçu la visite de deux femelles ourses. Elles l'ont reniflé et sont reparties. (Sébastien Barrault)

Posted Jun 2008 05 at 17:56 [en - fr]

Tue, 03 Jun 2008, Décès du chien polaire Tassen

I know 2 Tassen in Svalbard. My dog, an elegant Greenlandic with a thick fur "smoking" and tattooed "007". True! He is strong, sound and tough. A little narrow indeed. The second one is a huge Caterpillar used to carry coal at the harbour of Svea mine. No wonder why such a machine has been called like my dog, I often repeated to myself! At 5 o'clock this morning, mechanism jammed. I found out, little moved, that Tassen, the dog, will not be jealous of the red balloon anymore. He flew off as well. In the present storm, some yappings died away at Inglefieldbukta. Today Imiaq will have a new collar. (Sébastien Barrault, transl. EB)

Posted Jun 2008 03 at 20:45 [en - fr]

Fri, 30 May 2008, Que la fonte commence !

I knew it would happen... I'm afraid here we are! After 8 long months, winter is ending. As I didn't want to face it, 3 geese came from South and sway their hips appetizingly in front of the dogs, pulling hard on their chains, it was the end of it. Yes, the fine days of summer are coming, as some would say. But in Spitsbergen, this means that snow is becoming heavy and wet, that permafrost is melting at surface, that sky is getting more cloudy, that soon Vagabond will be trapped in a persistent fog, and that mud will be more perverse than fragile pack ice. Here we would say that a new season is starting. (transl. EB)

Posted May 2008 30 at 10:55 [en - fr]

Tue, 27 May 2008, Mini-tsunami !

Vagabond gave a jump this morning... also I did; we didn't understand. My heart missed a beat. A giant wave broke open the hull of the boat, mixing everything inside, taking all away... even us! In a word, this was how I experienced the first seconds of a mini-tsunami, still in an ethereal sleep. I was only just dressed up, on the deck, I could see the dogs braced on their legs looking at pack ice, though still. The glacier at the other side of the bay was weathering in a furious uproar... and the wave went out by a hole through the ice under the boat's stern. As a matter of fact, it's hot in the sun. It gave wings to "Maurice", our goldfish, who was allowed to go out of his bowl today, and to tickle the clouds. (transl. EB)

Posted May 2008 27 at 12:03 [en - fr]

Fri, 23 May 2008, La nouvelle équipe s'installe

Eric left Vagabond under a radiant midnight sun, entrusting his floating house to our care, as well as last scientific measurements before ice breaking up. Although Elin and I are now alone on board, we don't feel unfamiliar with the premises. The boat met us before, as well as glaciers around. Today, 7 dogs are watching the boat and waking up Inglefield Bay with their yapping and howling every time some dog food is showing up at the bow. So our 5 weeks stay on board is looking... musical! (transl. EB)

Posted May 2008 23 at 11:06 [en - fr]

Tue, 20 May 2008, Arrivée de la relève

Elin, Sébastien and their 3 dogs arrived last Sunday, on skis, the weather remained splendid since. Yesterday, I explained them the scientific work, starting with a weather sounding with the helium balloon, then the radiometers, the daily weather report and the ice thickness measurements. Today, we are more looking at technical things: energy control with solar panels, wind generator and main generator, then stove maintenance, safety equipment, and keeping an eye on the temporary repairs of the hull. I'm leaving the boat tonight, for 5 weeks.

Posted May 2008 20 at 20:08 [en - fr]

Fri, 16 May 2008, Seul à bord

Jean-Claude Gascard, coordinator of Damocles, Hugues and Stephen, cameramen, and France and Léonie left Vagabond on Wednesday night. Scientific season is finishing progressively, melting has started, but we will have to wait until July to be free from pack ice, and to get back to open sea. Until then, some weather soundings will complete data from the permanent automatic station set up near the cabin. I'm now doing the last oceanographic measurements, from a very wet pack ice.

Posted May 2008 16 at 13:25 [en - fr]

Thu, 15 May 2008, Message de Jean-Claude Gascard

(extrait du livre d'or de Vagabond) Grandes retrouvailles avec Vagabond après deux années d'infidélité. Mais c'est décidé nous allons mettre les bouchées doubles et les petits plats dans les grands pour assurer un 5ème hivernage de haute volée. Ce sera le "grand finale". Un coup de vent de 30-40 noeuds nous a permis de ne pas oublier les humeurs du Storfjord. Des chutes de neige abondantes ont enfoncé la glace sous l'eau ce qui nous a occasionné quelques bains de pied rafraîchissants et quelques suées pour sortir les motoneiges des flaques d'eau. Le programme scientifique a été bien rempli malgré tout avec un transect de CTD (Conductivity Temperature Depth), un profil atmosphérique jusqu'à 1500 m d'altitude, et une station ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) de 12 heures. La CTD a bien profilé de la banquise jusqu'au fond avec quelques touchers à marée basse et une sonde "beurrée" par les sédiments. Beaucoup de saumures très salées cette année avec un record à 35,60g de sels par kg d'eau de mer, et très froides (-1,90°C). Une nouvelle moisson riche de résultats. Avec le 5ème hivernage qui se profile, tout cela va constituer une magnifique série qui fera date et va servir de référence. L'an prochain nous aurons une activité très intense en Mars-Avril-Mai avec les AITP (Acoustic Ice Tetherd Platform), les flotteurs équipés de sonar à visée verticale pour mesurer l'épaisseur de la glace par en dessous, le glider pour faire des sections transversales et longitudinales dans le Storfjord, la POPS (Polar Ocean Profiler System) pour faire des profils CTD surface fond au point fixe, plusieurs fois par jour. Il faudra installer une grande tente avec arceaux à proximité de Vagabond pour préparer les manips, abriter le ballon captif... Mais avant il reste à terminer la campagne 2008 avec Sébastien Barrault qui va venir rejoindre Eric dans quelques jours. Il s'agira de réaliser essentiellement des profils atmosphériques avec le ballon instal lé près de la cabane sur la terre ferme jusqu'à la débâcle et avant le retour de Vagabond à Longyearbyen, mi-juillet. Aujourd'hui, 14 mai, nous attendons Stefano pour retourner sur Longyearbyen avec Léonie, la star de Vagabond et France sa maman, Hugues et Stephen les cameramen de l'Envol qui nous préparent un superbe film sur les activités menées à bord de Vagabond dans le cadre de Damocles. Eric reste seul à bord pour vérifier l'étanchéité du bateau qui cette année a beaucoup souffert des coups redoublés de la glace contre la coque et aussi renforcés par un tremblement de terre très rare au Spitsberg survenu en février. Beaucoup de travail en perspective cet été pour réparer les cages protectrices des hélices qui ont été partiellement arrachées (détachées) de la coque (on ne sait pas trop actuellement faute de pouvoir plonger sous le bateau). Il y aura des travaux de soudure pour remettre tout cela en place avant d'effectuer les missions d'été. Toute l'équipe de Damocles est très reconnaissante à Vagabond et son équipage, Eric, France et Léonie, pour le travail accompli, l'accueil toujours chaleureux. Nous souhaitons tous bon vent au vaillant bateau, vive Vagabond et bonnes missions au Svalbard. A très bientôt, Jean-Claude.

Posted May 2008 15 at 13:03 [en - fr]

Tue, 13 May 2008, Gadoue sur la banquise

Scientific experiments could start again yesterday: 6 hydrographical casts with the CTD and weather sounding with the captive balloon. Today is plan another 12 hours station with CTD and current meter. Moving on pack ice became much more difficult because of the large amount of snow that felt during the storm. Pack ice is sinking under the surface because of the weight of the snow (we talk about negative free-board), this already made us work some long hours to take the scooters and sledges out of the slush (snow and sea water mixture).

Posted May 2008 13 at 07:47 [en - fr]

Fri, 09 May 2008, En mai, ne te découvre pas d'un fil

Jean-Claude Gascard, coordinator of the European project Damocles we are working for, is on board Vagabond for one week. The day before his arrival, we were still enjoying a beautiful midnight sun... Unfortunately, the weather has been bad for the last 4 days, snow and wind are keeping us inside the boat, impossible to carry on sea ice measurements for now. So we are looking at last data collected, and we are comparing them with those gathered during the last 4 years. It is exciting to discover with him some original events, unexplained so far.

Posted May 2008 09 at 11:18 [en - fr]

Tue, 06 May 2008, Tournage sur la banquise

In a few months, you will be able to know more about our work and life, thanks to two new documentary films which will be broadcast on French TV. The film team is now on board, and every day, depending on the weather and on scientific work that should be done, or during a family trip with the dogs, microphones and cameras are following us, faithful witnesses. Between weather soundings, hydrographic measurements and ice thickness observations, a polar bear is passing now and then, not concerned at all by this masquerade.

Posted May 2008 06 at 18:23 [en - fr]

Fri, 02 May 2008, Sous le soleil de minuit

The female polar bear and her 2 cubs came close to the boat, we could watch them for a long time, amazed. The cubs were jumping and running around their mother, who was looking for seals in their dens under the snow, on sea ice. Most ringed seal pups are born now, and their mothers are protecting them as much as they can for a few weeks more. Then, they will have to manage by themselves. This intense activity is going on under midnight sun: since 10 days, the vital star is staying above the horizon, it will not set before end of August.

Posted May 2008 02 at 11:56 [en - fr]

Tue, 29 Apr 2008, Journées bien remplies sur la banquise

After 2 weeks pretty windy, we could repair the balloon and reinflate it with helium. Lighter than air again, linked to land with a very light but very strong thread, it reached easily 1500m with its valuable weather sensors. The same day, I went to the ice edge, 9km from shore, and I sent down the CTD as deep as possible in Storfjord. It is the best time of the year to move on pack ice, for us and for polar bears. Among the 14 animals we could see in the last 3 days, the 2 young cubs less than 4 months old, running after their mother, were the most touching.

Posted Apr 2008 29 at 10:13 [en - fr]

Sat, 26 Apr 2008, 3 ours sur mon chemin

While coming back from my daily measurements (CTD), I suddenly see a polar bear in front of me, partly hidden on pack ice strewn with ice blocks and snowdrifts. It is a big cub, almost as big as his mother who doesn't wait long to show up. The female is wearing a collar transmitting her position continuously, so she is participating to a scientific project. We are looking at each other for a while, but a big male appears suddenly. He has been following them for some time probably, and procession starts again. When passing close to me, the male sniffs towards me, not interested.

Posted Apr 2008 26 at 12:29 [en - fr]

Tue, 22 Apr 2008, Sous la banquise, l'eau très froide

At least, just before leaving, our colleague Nicolas could enjoy a perfect weather. The ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) was set up under the ice during a complete tide cycle. While it was recording all currents continuously and with high resolution, from the surface to the bottom, we were sending down the CTD (Conductivity Temperature Depth) every thirty minutes. During this 12 hours station on pack ice, few kilometres offshore, a big polar bear passed not far from us, hidden by ice blocks and snowdrifts.

Posted Apr 2008 22 at 12:41 [en - fr]

Fri, 18 Apr 2008, Flotter dans la tempête

A second hole was found near the other propeller of the boat. Despite the plugging, we still need to pump out now and then the water accumulating in the bottom. We are looking for a less precarious solution! If the movements of pack ice made holes in the hull, the long one week storm has damaged the weather balloon. The good weather seems to be back, we should be able to repair it and to start again all scientific work. We'll do first series of measurements with currentmeter and CTD during at least 12 hours from Storfjord pack ice.

Posted Apr 2008 18 at 09:37 [en - fr]

Tue, 15 Apr 2008, Lorsque tout se complique

Sunday, in a calm moment, we could do some measurements with the CTD, from pack ice, at 5 km from Vagabond. But since then, weather has been bad and wind is making big snow drifts around us. Snowmobiles, dog houses, sledge... everything disappeared under the snow, which means many hours of shovelling! Also this morning, we had to get buckets and pumps to empty the boat who started sinking by the back. After few hours, we found a hole and plugged it quickly, near the starboard propeller.

Posted Apr 2008 15 at 21:32 [en - fr]

Fri, 11 Apr 2008, Hommage aux chiens polaires

Today, weather is forcing us to stay inside: blowing snow, temperature -21°C, north-easterly wind 60 km/h, equivalent chill temperature -52°C. The dogs, perfectly adapted, are staying outside, rolled up into a ball. They are watching the camp. Without them, in such conditions, or during the polar night, we could not live and work here serenely. When we are going with skis or dog sledge, they are still looking after us, while pulling us happily and without any risk of break down. Yesterday evening, they had suddenly many visitors: 5 sledges pulled by 39 dogs! Just imagine how excited were Jin, Frost, Imiaq and Zagrey...

Posted Apr 2008 11 at 17:34 [en - fr]

Tue, 08 Apr 2008, Le lieu d'hivernage vu du ciel

The helium balloon, after a weather sounding until 1700m, took off again with the camera. On this picture, you can see the 4 dog houses near the boat, the scooter and the sledge at the back, and the 3 tents of a passing expedition. The camera stayed about 10 minutes only in the air, but long enough to empty a new battery, because of the cold. Then, the chosen picture must be highly resized and compressed to have a good chance to reach destination. A satellite phone, connected to a computer, is the only link we have with civilisation.

Posted Apr 2008 08 at 11:14 [en - fr]

Fri, 04 Apr 2008, 3 expéditions à ski le même jour !

Wednesday, it was crowded at Vagabond. 13 skiers total (and 16 pulkas) passed by the only inhabited place in the whole region. 5 French men from Mountaineering Military Group came the day before: an expedition to test some equipment before going to Antarctica. The next morning, 3 norwegians (2 women and a man) stopped for a short while. They are crossing Spitsbergen from North to South within 40 days. In the evening arrived 5 Polish men, they set up their tent near our dogs, then they didn't need to use the trip wire against polar bear. Temperature -30°C (early morning), no wind, blue sky.

Posted Apr 2008 04 at 11:25 [en - fr]

Wed, 02 Apr 2008, Le réchauffement, un poisson d'avril ?

Yesterday morning, while going for daily measurements, I passed a very new track from 2 polar bear cubs with their mother. They are just out of the den and are now discovering their future hunting field. This year, March was much colder than usual. Pack ice and its inhabitants are all the better. Is it the result of our efforts, is climate trend reversing, or are we only having a little occasional cooling? Anyway, during 4 years, we didn't see any half-starved polar bear here. Are we living in a real sanctuary?

Posted Apr 2008 02 at 08:45 [en - fr]

Fri, 28 Mar 2008, Parhélie

For the last 2 weeks, sky was clear and temperatures were below mean temperatures. Best conditions to work on pack ice, but also to admire parelie. This is the halo and all images of the sun given by refraction of the beams in a cloud formed with ice crystals. It is sometimes possible to see 3 images of the sun, also called false suns. These are often mentioned in Arctic stories and legends. While spring is starting, this phenomenon is added to the magic of northern lights, the last ones before permanent daylight.

Posted Mar 2008 28 at 19:55 [en - fr]

Thu, 27 Mar 2008, Une bathysonde pour les brines

Since we came to Spitsbergen in 2004, we are using a CTD (Conductivity, Temperature, Depth). This instrument is recording salinity and temperature of the sea at every depth. At the moment, brines are accumulating at the bottom of the fjord, so much that this very cold and salty water drained off pack ice is filling up the fjord. This spectacular event is fascinating for oceanographers. To better understand it, I'm going every day on pack ice to send the CTD down with a winch.

Posted Mar 2008 27 at 08:59 [en - fr]

Fri, 21 Mar 2008, Poisson rouge

This big balloon floating gently above Vagabond makes me think about a goldfish, escaped from its bowl to visit the Arctic and check global warming. It set up with us for few months, to sound wind, humidity, pressure and temperature in altitude. For now, the sensors it is carrying towards the sky are confirming that the weather has been particularly cold for one week! Temperature this morning: -25°C. Wind 25 km/h, equivalent temperature -46°C. On board, we have to be more careful to keep a minimum comfort and enjoy the last hours of night, in the warmth. We can already feel the permanent daylight...

Posted Mar 2008 21 at 12:56 [en - fr]

Tue, 18 Mar 2008, Sondages et carottages

For the last few days, the scientific season is at its height and our pack ice is receiving full attention. Diversity of measures is to compare with diversity of researchers welcomed on board Vagabond. American, Estonian, English, Finn, French, all together we are sounding sea ice an its environment with CTD, icemeter, radiometers, thermometers, hygrometers, anemometers, densitometer... Some instruments are diving 100 meters below pack ice, others are climbing up to 1500 meters altitude. What a place full of life! In addition, the weather is perfect: temperature -30°C, no wind and clear sky for the last 4 days.

Posted Mar 2008 18 at 15:52 [en - fr]

Fri, 14 Mar 2008, Campement Vagabond

Our yacht, now hut, seems to be very still, frozen in ice for 8 months. But she is coming up and down with tides. Cracks along the shore are opening and closing with creakings that are sometimes making the dogs mad. These movements are quite strong at spring tides, and as the boat is very close to shore, she is tilting one side, then the other... So we have to hold our cups like when at sea! Somehow, we are sailing at the speed of one meter wave every 12 hours...

Posted Mar 2008 14 at 10:10 [en - fr]

Tue, 11 Mar 2008, Labyrinthe de glace

If we are here since autumn 2004, it is to study pack ice. So we observe its behaviour, depending and marine currents and weather. But for that, before drilling a hole and plunging scientific instruments, we need to find a way to bring our equipment to the concerned area... Tormented by storms when forming, sea ice is not yet passable. Still captivated by this sight, we wait. Snow and wind should soon level this magnificent chaotic field.

Posted Mar 2008 11 at 12:23 [en - fr]

Mon, 10 Mar 2008, Un dimanche sur la banquise

It is Sunday, and conditions are perfect for a dog sledge trip! Pack ice is now thick enough (about 70 cm average), cold and wind for the last few days have packed the snow, and sun is shinning several hours. It looks like polar night is far behind us, but the first sun rise of the year was only 3 weeks ago! Polar bear visits are less because open water is far from Vagabond also we feel more comfortable to leave our camp for a short trip around, with or without scientific instruments.

Posted Mar 2008 10 at 19:02 [en - fr]

Wed, 05 Mar 2008, Zagrey

It is a polar dog that connected the 2 yachts of Damocles, and our little pack increased last week. Zagrey is coming from Russia, he crossed the Arctic Ocean with Tara, a 17 months trip at the speed of pack ice. He reached Vagabond by snowmobile from Longyearbyen, first stop of Tara, and his huge dog house found a place near those from his 3 new companions, who cannot much approach without him growling! Zagrey is barking unexpectedly, we're hoping that he will soon get use to pack ice cracks, that he will mainly bark after polar bears, that he will pull a bit the sledge, but that he will keep quiet and will not make as much noise as the others at food time! Welcome to the joyful oldest of the team.

Posted Mar 2008 05 at 09:34 [en - fr]

Fri, 29 Feb 2008, Au soleil

Léonie had only just blown out her first candle when she rediscovered the sun entering the saloon of Vagabond. While a polar bear looked on, perched on the closest iceberg, probably not to miss anything from the scene making our small crew very happy, the sunbeams touched the boat yesterday, for the first time since last October. A pleasure to share these moments with our friends Roland and Dominique, as well as scientific work on pack ice and northern lights. The weather is great, -30°C for the last 3 days, but no wind.

Posted Feb 2008 29 at 15:29 [en - fr]

Mon, 25 Feb 2008, TSR

"L'esprit vagabond", 26 minutes documentary made in 2007 by Benoît Aymon and Pierre-Antoine Hiroz, will be shown in "Passe-moi les jumelles" program on TSR at 20:05 on Wednesday 27th February (Léonie's first birthday!). It will be then possible to watch the film on www.tsr.ch.

Posted Feb 2008 25 at 11:01 [en - fr]

Mon, 25 Feb 2008, Nicole

Sad news. On 23rd February, at Ushuaia, Nicole van de Kerchove had heart attack while riding a horse across pampas. We were happy to entrust Vagabond to her for 10 weeks, from October to December 2006, during the first half of polar night. You can read again her logbook on this web site, showing her enthusiasm, her courage, her sense of humour. She was about to publish a book, written during her stay on board. From pack ice, we are sharing the grief with all her nearest and dearest.

Posted Feb 2008 25 at 10:32 [en - fr]

Fri, 22 Feb 2008, Séisme

February 21st. At 3:50 this morning, some strong tremors woke up the whole team on board Vagabond, except Léonie. It was like if a giant's hand took hold of the mast and was shaking it forcefully. For about 30 seconds, the strong ice cradle was creaking by fits and starts against the hull. Cracks were louder and different from those made by tides, which we are now used to. Quickly dressed, after another tremor series, we went around the boat and saw many new cracks in the 70cm thick pack ice. All was quiet outside, snow was falling slowly, without any wind... Strangely, this happened at the exact same time than the total moon eclipse, which we could not see, unfortunately, due to the clouds. Could a big wave, coming under the pack ice all the way to Vagabond, create so strong tremors? Or could it be our faithful Inglefield glacier, loosing a large part of ice, although this is usually not happening in winter? Around 11am, when a Norwegian journalist called us, we had the ex planation: we were very likely the closest people from the epicentre of the strongest earthquake ever recorded in Norway. At about 70 km from the boat, in Storfjord, the earthquake reached magnitude 6.2 on the Richter scale. Léonie was the only one not to worry, probably still under the spell after last polar bear visit, the day before, or after sliding in front of first sunbeams of the year. Our white paradise was very busy at the end of the polar night!

Posted Feb 2008 22 at 08:25 [en - fr]

Fri, 15 Feb 2008, Visites

The big polar bear last night let us film him for a good while, few meters away from the boat, lit with the searchlight. Northern lights were dancing in the sky, the moon was twinkling, and there was not a breath of air. We could hear him breathe, and by -30°C, snow was crunching loudly under his steps. It was the seventh visit in 2 days. Polar bears came closer to shore, they are also waiting for pack ice to form again.

Posted Feb 2008 15 at 09:22 [en - fr]

Tue, 12 Feb 2008, Houle

In 4 days, if the sky is clear, we will be able to see the sun for few minutes, in the south, at noon. It will be the end of the polar night. With light coming back, scientific experiments on sea ice and family trips with the dog sledge will be easier. A CTD and an electromagnetic icemeter arrived yesterday, these instruments were on board Tara, also for Damocles. Our first visitors, Ariane and Hugues, are on board for 12 days of filming. They can listen this morning to the loud creaking of the hull against the ice, because of the swell coming up to the boat. Already part of Inglefieldbukta's fast ice has been drifting away... We now have to wait for pack ice to re-form before venturing again.

Posted Feb 2008 12 at 09:30 [en - fr]

Thu, 07 Feb 2008, Redoux

As usual here, weather is giving us suddenly warm temperatures, almost like in summer. After -30°C and clear sky, northern lights or twilight at midday, here is only 2°C below zero. But the snow falling is not stopping Léonie liven up the camp, laughing in the big pulka pulled by France around the boat, in front of the surprised dogs. Tara's crew is already sailing to Lorient, no time to bring us the scientific equipment, which will be coming next week from Longyearbyen with our first visitors.

Posted Feb 2008 07 at 17:39 [en - fr]

Fri, 01 Feb 2008, Gros ours

Yesterday afternoon, our visitor was a perfect actor. Wind had change direction and was blowing towards pack ice, from where a big polar bear could smell us. The animal went very close to the hull, allowed himself to be filmed while moving back, dazzled by the searchlight, then he lay down about 40 meters from Vagabond. Léonie was very excited watching him standing up and heading for pack ice again, after looking at us for a while. Few hours later, the visit would not have been so enjoyable as we were giving Léonie a bath!

Posted Feb 2008 01 at 10:41 [en - fr]

Mon, 28 Jan 2008, Marées

Snow and northerly wind for the last few days. We are enjoying the little comforts of the only inhabited spot in the whole area, rocked by sea ice cracking. Vagabond is so close to shore that she is tilting and righting twice a day, trapped between ice floes going up and down with the tides.

Posted Jan 2008 28 at 10:54 [en - fr]

Wed, 23 Jan 2008, Navigations hivernales

While the stillness of our ship will last for many more months, Francis Joyon sailed alone around the world in 57 days, and Tara is just free from pack ice after 16 months across the Arctic Ocean. This boat is heading for Longyearbyen where a good many of the scientific instruments will be conveyed to Vagabond. Our commitment for Damocles is extended until summer 2009, which will allow us to welcome the team of Montagne du Silence as their next expedition is postponed to next year. Our 3 dogs are enjoying being on pack ice next to Vagabond, at least, but would have been happy to get a copy of this week issue of Femme Actuelle magazine to read the article about our family life.

Posted Jan 2008 23 at 09:57 [en - fr]

Sun, 20 Jan 2008, Féerique

Since 2 days, the moon, northern lights and stars are reflected on snow and ice, and are turning our heads. Around midday, a very pale twilight is showing up in the south, but the polar night is holding out. -20°C and absolute silence outside, unless when dogs are barking after Léonie's cries, or when ice pack is cracking. +15°C and fresh bread and chocolate cake smell inside Vagabond, it's Sunday.

Posted Jan 2008 20 at 18:29 [en - fr]

Wed, 16 Jan 2008, Famille à bord

Crew change went fine, as planned, last Monday. Well settled in her sleeping bag Lestra made to measure, sheltered with her mum inside a sled on skis, Léonie (10 months) crossed few glaciers to reach Vagabond. I was looking behind quite often to see if the family was following my snowmobile, without being shaken too much! With Alan and Daniel, we were expected by Sanna and Fabrice for a nice meal on board a welcoming boat, plunged in the polar night, and immobilized by a 70 cm thick pack ice. The storm we have now was already threatening, also our companions all left the same day for Longyearbyen. We are happy being back on board, after 3 months away, and we are getting ready for more measurements on pack ice.

Posted Jan 2008 16 at 18:47 [en - fr]

Sun, 13 Jan 2008, Tarte aux pommes

While Léonie, France and I are getting ready to travel to Vagabond with snowmobiles, with Alan and Daniel, here are the latest news from Inglefield's bay: "The calm, warm weather from New Year's eve continued for couple of days, but not even the small rain put us down... that just makes the snow even better to work with. The result was the biggest snowman of the whole East Coast... and lot of other snow things. Zodiak got also his part and now he has a fancy snow wall to protect him. This one is so strong after few days of minus degrees that even the biggest polar bear we have seen so far could not destroy it. Imiaq, Jin and Frost didn't get snow wall because they would have destroyed them faster than we can build. We have tried to make the dogs a bit less energetic by sledging and skiing everyday. The track around the boat is getting bigger and bigger day by day. Yesterday, even Imiaq was laying down in the snow after the trip. We have noticed that since we started the sledging, the dogs have also been a bit more quiet, except when there is a bear, which has been more often during the last few days. Even though the dogs are quiet, it is not quiet in the bay. The ice is making the sounds like in video games while tides lift and low icebergs close by... or in war when the ice bangs around the boat. Now the apple pie is ready." Sanna and Fabrice

Posted Jan 2008 13 at 02:01 [en - fr]

Mon, 07 Jan 2008, Voeux de Jean-Claude Gascard

"The third year of the Damocles project will be extremely important for the success of the project. Following the past summer event with an exceptional sea-ice retreat that was not really predicted we are facing a lot of important issues involving both models and observations. The Damocles General Assembly in Oslo was a good opportunity to make a real evaluation of what we did and what we need to accomplish. The meetings in San Francisco were also a good occasion to strengthen our link with American partners. There will be a workshop in Iceland in February concerning NWP and how Damocles can improve weather predictions in the Arctic, and a second workshop in the USA in March concerning Arctic Observing Network.

Also field works will be an important aspect with the spring operations in Fram Strait with KV Svalbard (iAOOS Norway) and north of Canada (Eureka) with air logistics and during summer with multiple ice breakers operations from Sweden, China, Russia and Germany and open water ships operating in the Norwegian Sea and around Spistbergen. Tara left the Arctic Ocean early on December 2007 and she is now drifting north of the Greenland Sea at about 77°N and 7°W still frozen in ice and drifting with the East Greenland Current. The russian NP 35 drifting station is progressing well on the southern flank of the transpolar drift. Vagabond is again (the fourth wintering) in place in Storfjord since last September 2007 and will continue some of the routine measurements we had at Tara.

The next Damocles General Assembly will be in Sopot (Poland) from November 24 to 28, 2008.

I wish you all and Damocles an excellent year." Jean-Claude Gascard, project leader.

Posted Jan 2008 07 at 16:42 [en - fr]

Wed, 02 Jan 2008, Réveillon

Sanna and Fabrice keep trying with the sledge, but the dogs seem quite happy to just run around the boat... There are quite a lot of polar bear tracks at Vagabond, now that the ice broke in the big bay. Zodiac was scared when a big male went looking inside his house and smashed his snow wall! The New Year's eve was as long as some party in town. But instead of drinking and dancing, Sanna and Fabrice were cleaning and drying the boat: the temperature suddenly changed from -20 to +2 with a strong southern wind. It seems like that every time there is a special day, the bad weather shows its respect with its presence.

Posted Jan 2008 02 at 16:45 [en - fr]

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