Fri, 30 Dec 2011, Quelques jours à bord

"Are you going back already?", are asking most people we meet in Grise Fiord on Wednesday afternoon. Here, festivities don't stop between Christmas and New Year. But we need to look after Vagabond and after our four dogs. Even if I already did a return trip, alone, last Monday (all was frozen on board), we decide to go back four of us for a few days, in order to warm up the boat, charge the batteries, feed the dogs... to have a little family party as well, to not stop scientific work, and to rest a little bit!

In the end, Raymond arrives by snowmobile on 24 December around 9am, without notice. I wake up the girls and we all board the big sleigh. It's cold (-39°C), but pack ice is quite smooth and the fifty kilometres are done without a hitch, with a faint midday light allowing us to see the mountains. Splendid. At noon, we are in Grise Fiord! We left the village on 6 October and we are a bit confused with this return to "town". By the time we had a shower (what a luxury), and we gave a hand to the nurse to carve a big turkey (little health problems can wait), we meet all inhabitants in the gymnasium. Tables are laid out for 110 people, Christmas Eve party is organised by the hamlet, many volunteers prepared dishes, decorated the room, wrapped gifts... and everyone is bringing place settings and a gift. After the feast start the first games. Aurore and Léonie are very happy to run around with other kids, on a hard ground and with light clothes. France and I are glad to see again our local friends and take some news. At 11pm, almost everybody manage to enter the little church, which door had remained half open. So everyone keeps his jacket on to listen to Larry, accompanied for songs by Jimmie on electronic organ. At midnight, back to the gym where the arrival of Santa Clause engenders general jubilation. It's Ron Elliott, member of the Nunavut Government, who is having the white beard this year, he gives out one by one all the gifts. Ron came to Grise Fiord to better understand local problems. Without outside link for days, the town was missing food, mail, and travellers were not able to leave or come back... but on 23 and 24, three planes could at least land and resupply the town for Christmas.
The next day, we are invited to a Christmas diner with several families, before another games night in the gym. Nights start around 7pm and can last until dawn (so to speak). The town is sleeping in the morning, the store is open from 3pm to 5pm, a meeting place that cannot be ignored. We buy some vegetables and fruits, and take delivery of many parcels! When leaving the nice house lent by Liza et Aksakjuk, with their snowmobile, the sleigh is heavily loaded (gifts offered by our Grise Fiord friends, gifts won at games, seal meat, bags of washed clothes...). I manage to follow my track from two days before, surprised to be able to tow such a big sleigh with a simple snowmobile. Even so, bends are not easy to negotiate!
Tomorrow, we will go lighter to Grise Fiord, where we are invited to celebrate the New Year.

Posted Dec 2011 30 at 10:00 [en - fr]

Sun, 25 Dec 2011, Noël à Grise-Fiord

Merry Christmas to everyone, from Grise Fiord! Complete story coming soon...

Posted Dec 2011 25 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Wed, 21 Dec 2011, Solstice

On winter solstice we are celebrating the middle of the polar night. From now on, the sun will progressively get closer to the horizon. Next sun rise expected on 15 February. But fortunately, this is not yet half of the winter! Vagabond dropped anchor at South Cape Fiord two and half months ago, she will be kept here by pack ice for another seven months or so.
France just moved the seal net, hoping for better results. She is keeping the holes open and checking the net daily. No hurry, dogs are not yet starving. On board, making gifts, candles, various decorations, biscuits... is keeping all family busy. Amazingly, just before festivities, France would already have an upset stomach, and I have a painful tooth! This will not stop us from going on Friday, if the weather is fine, to Grise Fiord, where we are invited for Christmas.

Posted Dec 2011 21 at 12:00 [en - fr]

Mon, 19 Dec 2011, Cache cache

It is really dark today at noon, when I go for scientific measurements. Moon is set for eight days, sun is at its lowest under the horizon (winter solstice is in two days), and first of all, the sky is cloudy. On top of that, it is snowing and it is windy, so visibility is very poor. For once, I need to keep my headlamp on for the five hours field work. But luckily, I make out my tracks from previous surveys. Actually, I never had to use a GPS so far to find my way across the fjord. Once departure excitement passed, the dog Bella seems to be deep in thought too, until we meet polar bear tracks, quite recent. Hard to say as it is snowing. The animal join the "trail" and is going in front of us. Bella is sniffing actively. The sledge looks far behind, I decide to keep the riffle with me, even if I would be using the alarm pistol first. Tracks are sometimes very well marked, it is not a huge polar bear, but a fair size for now. Previously, I had watched several times polar foxes tracks, also attracted by that amazing "trail" going across the fjord. In the end, four kilometres further, we reach the iceberg near the CTD station, where I come two or three times a week. The polar bear went around, he is maybe having a nap behind, we will not go and check. On our way back, I can hardly see the light on top of Vagabond's mast, it is twinkling between snow flakes.

Posted Dec 2011 19 at 16:00 [en - fr]

Fri, 16 Dec 2011, EM31

Why are we carrying an electromagnetic icemeter (EM31), every three days, across South Cape Fiord, for about ten kilometres? Answer by Christian Haas, professor of sea ice geophysics at University of Alberta in Edmonton (Canada):
Sea ice in the Canadian Arctic is an important component of the natural environment and human way of life and culture. It is a sensitive indicator of climate change and an obstacle for shipping and offshore operations. In order to better understand the regional and temporal variability of sea ice in the Canadian Archipelago, researchers at the University of Alberta have initiated a sea ice observing project including satellite remote sensing of ice types and developmental stages, and in situ observations of ice thickness. The program aims at repeat ice thickness surveys in the same regions every spring over several years, using electromagnetic thickness sensors towed by snow mobiles, for instance, between and around communities. The measurements in South Cape Fiord significantly contribute to these observations by providing information about the seasonal cycle of ice growth and decay, which provides a temporal context for the surveys across Jones Sound. They can also better reveal the impacts of ocean currents and stratification, as well as weather conditions on ice thicknesses measured in spring. Therefore we will include South Cape Fiord in our planned survey between Resolute Bay and Grise Fiord in May 2012.

Posted Dec 2011 16 at 13:00 [en - fr]

Tue, 13 Dec 2011, Sur la piste avec Elvis

In order to get to know better the only male of our little dog team, today I tied Elvis to the sledge for scientific field work. Obviously, he was confused with my strange activities on pack ice. But he stayed in my tracks and pull nicely the precious sledge for about ten kilometres. In the night, by -30°C, with northerly wind, I was not talking much... maybe a good drawing would be better?

Posted Dec 2011 13 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Tue, 13 Dec 2011, Et de 2, et de 3, et de 4 !

Elvis, Bella and Marly, brother and sisters of Unnuaq (night in Inuktitut, name given to our first dog), arrived yesterday night! Laisa and Norman played again Santa Claus: three dogs, a better seal net than our 25m long fishing net, two seals to feed the dogs, warm parkas for everyone, fruits and vegetables (grapes, tomatoes!...), stuffed animals, sweets and tooth paste (!) for the kids, and even a little Christmas tree (even so artificial). Totally unexpected visit and gifts, we are very moved with so much generosity. Also, Laisa is offering us to come to her place in town for Christmas, and our surprise guests already brought a huge sleigh to carry crew and bags from Vagabond to Grise Fiord. We only need to fill it up! Norman will try to pick up the full sleigh on 23 December, if conditions are good. No sooner had we shared a cup of tea than they left again, in the moonlight, to join the two hunters they left back on the ice. Not far from our fjord, they saw fresh tracks of a female polar bear with her two cubs.
Saturday night, not long after the beautiful moon eclipse, and while we were setting up some tinsels in the wardroom, Laisa, her husband Aksakjuk, and two young boys already turned up. It was a great pleasure to see them again, to discover all they had brought spontaneously for us (mail, fresh food, fruit juices, anorak and kamiks for Aurore...), and to listen to news from the village. Hunting is going on well (polar bear, seal, caribou, hare), the school is open again after two weeks closed because of water pipe problem, and preparations for Christmas are intensive.

Posted Dec 2011 13 at 08:00 [en - fr]

Mon, 05 Dec 2011, Quelle nuit fait-il ?

Clear sky in the morning, stars are dimly lighting pack ice and snowy mountains around Vagabond. Some shy northern lights are adding a little colour to the scenery. At midday, without fading the stars, a soft twilight is giving an impression of light for a couple of hours. In the afternoon, the moon is taking over. Like a floodlight, she is illuminating the setting until the next day. Vagabond's mast is showing its shadow on the snow and becomes moondial. After all, polar night is not often dark! It is sometimes darker at noon than at midnight, we are loosing sleep over it.
By definition, twilight is not the same for everyone. It is the light from the sun when down to 18° below the horizon for astronomers, 12° for sailors, 6° for earthmen. Different twilights are separating people on their ability to detect light. Here at 76°27’N latitude, at noon in the middle of the polar night, the sun reaches 9° below the horizon. Almost night for sailors, dark night for earthmen. But what a light! We are flirting with astronomers privileges.
If the sky is clear on Saturday 10 December, in the morning, we will watch a full moon eclipse.

Posted Dec 2011 05 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Wed, 30 Nov 2011, Le chien

Yesterday, two of our dogs went suddenly back to the village! We don't know yet the name of the dog we kept here, but he seems to become attached to us. He is dutifully watching our camp, and is gladly pulling the sledge full of iceberg ice or scientific equipment. He is saving time on our work, and giving real safety in the polar night, when we are focused on collecting iceberg ice for fresh water, or when doing CTD casts. He is also friendly and cheerful with the children, which is not always the case with polar dogs. Our stock of seal meat is getting low, but a net should be soon under the ice to try to catch some food for his next meals. He can't possibly fast by -35°C.

Posted Nov 2011 30 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Mon, 28 Nov 2011, Mémorable anniversaire

Last night, around midnight, I suddenly see some light from outside. Two headlights are approaching Vagabond! Norman and Manasie managed to come all the way from Grise Fiord, one by skidoo, the other one with ATV. Packice was very thin at some places, they tell us while giving us a big box full of mail. It took them more than ten hours to cover the fifty kilometres: some technical problems with the skidoo, fragile and fractured sea ice, but above all, they had to wait for the dogs, running in their tracks! Our three new companions are not yet here. In the meantime, Norman and Manasie can have something to eat, dry the skidoo spark plugs, give us a model of harness, two chains and some seal meat for the dogs, as well as kamiks for Aurore who is having her two years old birthday today! It is a great pleasure for us all to welcome our first visitors, and to have news from town, where people are already getting ready for Christmas parties. Tired, Norman and Manasie decide to drive back to Grise Fiord, it is nearly 3am Monday morning, but the dogs are not yet here... We go to sleep for a few hours, then we are relieved to discover that the dogs arrived. As for Léonie and Aurore, they slept so well all night that they did not hear anything! Before repairing the generator with the long-awaited pump, it is time for the party we have been preparing for the last few days for Aurore.

Posted Nov 2011 28 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Wed, 23 Nov 2011, Depuis l'espace

Packice is still not safe between Grise Fiord and Vagabond, as we can see on this view from the space. Explanations by Jean-Yves Lebras, from CLS Toulouse:
"This image is the result of ENVISAT satellite acquisition with its radar sensor ASAR (Advanced Synthetic Aperture Radar). This satellite is operated by ESA (European Space Agency).
SAR images are offering today significant potential to observe and watch marine environment. Detection of oil pollution from ships, sea state analysis, wind field, iceberg detection, sea ice chart... at unequalled space resolution, day and night.
Grey levels are representing the electromagnetic wave power received by the radar. On sea ice, power of retrodiffusion depends on ice density, surface roughness and fracturation.
Images are sent to Vagabond in the context of the European project SIDARUS, coordinated by Norwegian Institute NERSC. This project is developing new applications and new services based on satellite data in high latitudes (navigation assistance, animals movements and habitat monitoring particularly). CLS, partner of this project, is acquiring and analysing ENVISAT radar data, and then compressing and sending them to Vagabond from Brest VIGISAT station (www.vigisat.eu)."

Posted Nov 2011 23 at 10:00 [en - fr]

Sun, 20 Nov 2011, Météo

Every day, a weather report is sent to the local airline (Kenn Borek), to our neighbours in Grise Fiord, to the Meteorological Service of Canada, to some scientists, and to few people interested. These observations will be also used to process oceanographic data collected all along the winter. In addition, a Minos weather station was set up on board Vagabond by Météo France in Brest. Minos data are mainly used by weather forecast models (French, English, European (ECMWF), American, Japanese...). They are assimilated with thousands of observations (surface in situ, radiosonde investigations (balloons), satellites...), to represent atmosphere state, essential to predict its evolution. The closest weather station is in Grise Fiord, fifty kilometres from Vagabond.

Posted Nov 2011 20 at 10:00 [en - fr]

Thu, 17 Nov 2011, Lumières

Winter solstice is in five weeks, but already our head lamps are useful at midday, outside, even when the sky is clear. Inside, a candle or the kerosene lamp is lighted at lunchtime. Our fjord is huge, but space becomes more intimate, more friendly, in the circle of these lights. Polar night is arousing imagination. When the weather is fine, we can still distinguish cliffs and mountains, ten or fifteen kilometres around, standing out against white and uniform pack ice. The little light on top of the mast, visible from the middle of the fjord, where I go two or three times a week for scientific work, looks small but reassuring and welcoming. It can stay on all day because it is LED bulb, using very little electricity. Unfortunately, our friends from Grise Fiord didn't see it yesterday: once more, they could not find a safe way across pack ice, too thin, separating us from the village. They should try again next Saturday or Sunday. We are looking forward to welcome them on board, and to get back in touch with our neighbours, not seen since 6 October!

Posted Nov 2011 17 at 12:00 [en - fr]

Thu, 10 Nov 2011, L'ours de la pleine lune

I was wondering why I woke up at 4 in the morning, and why the camera tripod fall down on the ice... But tracks in the snow can tell: a polar bear came up to Vagabond, cautiously. Some noise might have scared him because he turned back suddenly, then came up again doing a large curve. Then he explored the girls game's track, then took on the camera tripod, then had a look at a kind of long rope tight between the boat and a big tripod. He freed a shovel, hooked on to a pulley that started rolling fast towards him on the tighten rope! Tracks of jumps and piss show his fear and escape. I didn't think that a game would become an alarm! Soon dogs will be here to watch over our refuge. In the meantime, things are happening here, full moon nights.

Posted Nov 2011 10 at 12:00 [en - fr]

Sun, 06 Nov 2011, Equipage

Eric, Aurore, France and Léonie, on 6 November, -39°C, clear sky, no wind.

Posted Nov 2011 06 at 15:00 [en - fr]

Sat, 05 Nov 2011, Essais divers pour manips scientifiques

Every three days, I carry the CTD to the middle of the fjord to measure water temperature and salinity, according to depth. Along the way, the icemeter is recording pack ice thickness, on the return trip as well. Temperatures dropped the last few days, and batteries were getting too low before I was back to the boat. So I connected the icemeter, the little computer and the GPS to a big 12 volts battery (similar to a car battery). And to be able to get the CTD down to the seabed, what was not possible with the longest rope available, I set up the winch, with its 600 meters line, on the big sledge. So yesterday, I had more than 100 kg to pull, when we just had twenty centimetres of new snow, and temperature was close to -35°C! It took me more than five hours, the CTD and the GPS were frozen, I didn't get any data. Today, less ambitious, I took the small pulka and the rope again, and I kept the CTD in my overall until I was ready to plunge it in the water. It was not very comfortable but efficient: results are looking good, although temperature was almost -40°C. Each field work is a little adventure!

Posted Nov 2011 05 at 17:00 [en - fr]

Thu, 03 Nov 2011, Eté ou hiver ?

In France, summer time ended on 30 October. On board Vagabond (and in all North America), summer time will end on 6 November. Then we will have again six hours difference with Brest, our home port.
From our pack ice, summer seems to be far behind! Also after a so easy and so quick freezing in period (ice is over 40 cm thick already), it needs some imagination to subscribe to some documentaries about global warming. Yes, our planning is now letting us more time to look at the little on board film collection. This is not like attending a good film festival, like Adventure Screens in Dijon, with which we had a live phone link today.
For now, tracks around the boat are only from polar bears, foxes, hares, lemmings, common ravens... and ours. In a few days, tracks from first visitors should be added, from Grise Fiord. The 48 km of pack ice are almost passable by skidoos and dog sleds.

Posted Nov 2011 03 at 18:00 [en - fr]

Fri, 28 Oct 2011, 12 et 33

It is 12 years today that I bought Vagabond. While Piem, always webmaster of website vagabond.fr from the beginning, is celebrating today his 33rd birthday in Mexico!
(picture taken while crossing the Atlantic in May 2011)

Posted Oct 2011 28 at 10:00 [en - fr]

Thu, 27 Oct 2011, Coucher du soleil

We did not see the sun today, there was a clear sky though! We should have seen it yesterday briefly, but it was snowing and the sky was cloudy. We have now to wait until 15th February 2012 before seeing it again...
Solar panels were pretty useful since we arrived at South Cape Fiord (amazingly, Vagabond's stem is pointing North accurately), but now we can store them for four months!
Gradually, Vagabond is getting back to winter organization. Survival suits and other sailing equipments have been put away until next summer. Fresh water tanks are now empty, and iceberg collected ice is melting in barrels inside the boat. Safety camp is ready, in case of fire for instance. Ladder is in place to go down easily on pack ice, already forty centimetres thick. The swing too is installed! Warm clothes are replacing sailing clothes, temperature is down to -22°C today. And two days ago, we emptied out the deep freezer, contents are now in boxes outside. There should be less mild spells here, south of Ellesmere Island, than in Svalbard, and our deep freezer will be off probably until next May. Like if Vagabond settled in a huge deep freezer...

Posted Oct 2011 27 at 15:00 [en - fr]

Sun, 23 Oct 2011, Respirer sous la banquise

Alone in the middle of the fjord, on thirty centimetres thick pack ice, while I'm taking up the CTD to the surface, I suddenly hear a breath, powerful, very close. I look around in vain, ice is very smooth all over many square kilometres, not a bump to hide an animal. Then I see a little dome, with a small home on top of it: a seal came to catch his breath, using that hole he is maintaining, and that he is able to find again under the ice I'm not sure how. These holes are many in Vagabond's surroundings. Despite a frozen scenery, there is a lot of life under the ice! A seal even came to breath at the back of the boat, in the hole made by rejected water from the engine. When the weather is calm, anywhere on pack ice, we only have to wait for a few minutes to hear breathing. Then we don't feel alone so much, almost being watched.

Posted Oct 2011 23 at 16:00 [en - fr]

Tue, 18 Oct 2011, Visiteurs

Finished the huge ice rink. Pack ice is covered with a thin blanket of snow. Visitors are now leaving foot prints behind! Already three times in two days we had polar bear visits, probably the same young one each time. He only chew a little bit a buoy. We'll be more relax when the dogs will be here to announce visits. They should have been coming by boat, but conditions were too bad. Boating season is ending. The fiord seems to be frozen as far as we can see now, soon the hunters from Grise Fiord should be able to travel on ice. And the dogs should come.

Posted Oct 2011 18 at 08:00 [en - fr]

Thu, 13 Oct 2011, Epaisseur de la banquise

First measurements with the icemeter, for Christian Haas, from University of Alberta, in Edmonton (Canada). The electromagnetic instrument (EM31) is detecting ice-water interface. By pulling it on pack ice, we get a thickness profile. One or two holes are done with an ice drill to calibrate the results.

Posted Oct 2011 13 at 14:00 [en - fr]

Wed, 12 Oct 2011, Mer figée

We didn't expect a so quick progress, a perfect sequence: Saturday, we prospect in open water, and decide to drop anchor by six meters depth; Sunday, surface is freezing; Monday, the dinghy is taken out from young ice and hoisted in the stern; Tuesday, we do our first steps on ice; today Wednesday, on about thirteen centimetres thick ice, the trip from the boat to shore is done without getting one's feet wet! Also, the direction of the boat seems very good, considering prevailing winds. Around us, a huge mirror has formed, sometimes floodlit by oblique sun, sometimes by full moon. Without snow, this clear, bright, and dark pack ice is fascinating.

Posted Oct 2011 12 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Sat, 08 Oct 2011, South Cape Fiord

76°26.9'N - 84°41.1'W. The position of Vagabond now should not change before July 2012. Pack ice is being formed, beautiful. Yesterday, we were already walking on the ice, around the boat. Today, we moved a little bit Vagabond, not to ground at every low tide. Tonight, the moon is lighting stripes of water full of ice crystals, taken by a good northerly wind.
Before coming to South Cape Fiord, fifty kilometres West of Grise Fiord, we went around Brume Point, following Aksajuk advice. Ice is suppose to be very stable there and above all, this is close to the village. I could reach it on foot indeed, after four hours walk (nice trip but hard terrain at this time of the year). But we were willing to be in a little bay more protected from winds and swell.
On our last stop at the village, on 5th October, the sea was unusually calm, at first. Time to do some shopping and waves made embarkation too difficult. So we were welcomed for the night. In the evening, Aurore and Léonie enjoyed playing with other kids in the gymnasium, then we watched hunters coming back (nine seals, a big fish and a few ducks for Liza and Aksajuk!). On 6th morning, I had to slip on quickly a dry suit and jump in the dinghy to catch up with Vagabond: she was disappearing between snow flurry, drifting offshore with the wind. The anchor didn't hold. Norman and Jimmie helped us a little later to take on board the family, the sledge and everything else. Then we were heading west on a fascinating icy swell.
After weeks spent juggling with swell, it will take us some time to realize that now wintering is starting and Vagabond is about to become a hut on the ice again. To celebrate this, and before polar night, each of us got a new rechargeable head lamp!

Posted Oct 2011 08 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Fri, 30 Sep 2011, Vent du nord mais rencontres chaleureuses

Last days of preparations, before sailing to our winter quarters. We've been at anchor once more, for the last two days, in the nearby fjord, waiting for next lull to go back to Grise Fiord. Freezing spray and night are making navigation more difficult. Chill temperature today, with the effect of the wind, is about -30°C.
Last Wednesday, when arriving at the village, new polar bear tracks were welcoming us on the beach! A few people saw the animal the same morning... It was "Terry Fox" day, with a run for everyone to fight against bone cancer, a national event all over Canada. Departure was from the school, where we show a film about Vagabond a few days earlier.
Little by little, we get to know Grise Fiord inhabitants, who are welcoming us very generously. Clothes, food, toys, candies... so many gifts! Some Inuit are already enthusiastic about visiting us soon, to share their experiences and discover our unusual home. Tom or Norman would come to show us how to use a seal net. Jimmie is thinking about some collaboration with Arctic College. Mark is interested with our daily reports on ice and weather for the Hunters and Trappers Association. Wendy and Harold, from the Health Center, gave us some advices for the children, and completed our medicines. Lisa, at home, showed us how to make kamiks (traditional skin boots), and then drove us to the dogs for a first contact with our future companions. Amo was happy to find his anchor, using our dinghy!

Posted Sep 2011 30 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Fri, 23 Sep 2011, Equinoxe

Message from Marc Givry: "September 23rd, 2011, 9:04, date and time of equinox, all humans are equals with 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night."
Time to check torches and headlamps, while a gale is keeping us on board! Anchor slipped last night, but is holding well since...

Posted Sep 2011 23 at 09:04 [en - fr]

Wed, 21 Sep 2011, Trois tonnes

Yesterday evening, the sea was calm in front of the village, and Vagabond got three tons of diesel oil. Tanks are full now, enough to feed the stove, the central heating, and the generator for the winter. Also the engines to sail to the wintering place. Here in Grise Fiord, each house needs about five hundreds litres of heating oil per week. Almost ten times more than Vagabond.
Today, there is swell again... Last Saturday, it was the biggest waves people have ever seen here. A little hut was even flushed away. There is no more drifting ice coming from the Arctic Ocean, to protect the village. Hunters are having more and more problems to launch there boats. Last night, they were all gone for seal hunting, and when they came back, dogs could eat finally.

Posted Sep 2011 21 at 10:00 [en - fr]

Mon, 19 Sep 2011, La pression remonte

Since last Wednesday, Vagabond is sheltered at the end of the fjord Grise. Tomorrow and after tomorrow, we should have better weather conditions to drop anchor in front of the village, at the mouth of the fjord (thirty kilometres). Air and water temperatures are decreasing, it will be soon time to get our supplies and sail to our winter quarters! In 1999, sea started freezing on 19th September around yacht Northanger. Today, we can feel global warming, but winter is coming anyway.
Before snow would hide everything, we find some planks on the beaches, to build dog houses and a winch stand for instance. All windows are getting their double glazing, the back door joint has just been improved, warmer clothes are out...

Posted Sep 2011 19 at 12:00 [en - fr]

Sun, 18 Sep 2011, Larry Audlaluk

Wednesday, Larry Audlaluk invited us at home, and drove us to the end of the track, to his best picnic area. On our way back, he was happy to stop with us at the dump to look for things and materials to recycle! Larry arrived in Grise Fiord in 1953, when the government decided to relocate a few families from Northern Quebec. Only his sister and him are left from this tragic time. Larry is putting himself a lot into telling the story of his little community, in Canada and abroad. He is regularly in the press, in books and in documentaries. His wife Annie lent France a special tunic to carry Aurore, Larry left us a copy of Otto Sverdrup's book, "New Land, four years in the Arctic (1898-1902)".

Posted Sep 2011 18 at 11:00 [en - fr]

Tue, 13 Sep 2011, Préparation de l'hivernage

Three ships stopped in Grise Fiord recently: a tanker and a cargo ship, for their annual deliveries of fuel and supplies, and a cruise ship with about a hundred tourists, who could watch an Inuit fashion show in the local gymnasium. A lot of occupations for the 145 inhabitants!
Marty Kuluguqtuq, assistant senior administration officer, is suggesting us to do a presentation of Vagabond for everyone, at the school. When there will be less swell, we will also have to fill up our diesel tanks. Marty is happy with the idea of having his daughter on board Vagabond once in a while, she has the same age than Léonie!
While we wait for a new pump for our generator, and for some scientific equipment, we have to get some more food and munitions, as well as a seal hunting licence, to send a hard drive with all the video rushes we did during the summer...
Jeffrey Qaunaq is leaving four of his dogs to us for the winter, as well as a sledge and a net to catch seals which are their main food. Marly, Bella, Elvis and a puppy with no name yet.
We are planning to be at our winter anchorage early October, before packice. We have been invited to haul Vagabond up onto the village's beach, but the bay we selected so far is at 45km West of Grise Fiord, at the entrance of a beautiful fjord. We give priority to the boat's safety, the scenery, possibilities for scientific work, and access to the village. We'll confirm our winter location in two or three weeks!
In our search for the ideal site, we dropped anchor in Harbour Fiord, below the cross erected by Otto Sverdrup and his companions, when they wintered on board Fram, in 1899-1900. Magnificent place.

Posted Sep 2011 13 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Sat, 03 Sep 2011, Premières neiges

At about one hour sailing from Grise Fiord, Vagabond dropped anchor away from the swell that keeps us from going ashore to the village. Summits are drifted with new snow, and the stove has been relighted for the first time yesterday. Before, a chimney sweep's brush was improvised with an old cable found on a beach!
When leaving Bay of Woe, we saw another polar bear, on a rock; he was like waiting for pack ice to form, for easier seal hunting. Front winds and up to six knots contrary current hindered the CTD casts planned in Cardigan Strait, we headed East at almost thirteen knots. First fjord on the left, Walrus Fiord, has the right name: we sailed close to about twenty walruses on the beach, exceptional encounter. But a little further, the small bay we spotted on the map was very shallow and with strong tidal currents: all engine power was needed to avoid being pushed on shoals.
In Hourglass Bay, we visited the hut set up by the crew of yacht Northanger, in 1999. Seven people, including a two and half years old girl, spent the winter here in 1999-2000, a century after Otto Sverdrup's expedition (four winters on board Fram). The place is nice, but quite far from the village (140km). We are in touch with our predecessors, who are sharing experience and advices.
Arctic hares are gambolling on the nearby tundra, many narwhals and seals are going up and down the fjord, it is time to feed as much as possible, before the cold. No more permanent day light. In the middle of the night, half-light is intensifying every day. In less than two months, sun will disappear totally, until February!

Posted Sep 2011 03 at 10:00 [en - fr]

Mon, 29 Aug 2011, Science et exploration dans le détroit de Jones

Every Friday, weather permitting, except during polar night, the school is inviting parents to join the children for a picnic or a walk. A great time to get to know Grise Fiord inhabitants better!
Weather forecast are good for three days. Friday evening, Vagabond set sail to the West. The following evening, at the end of Eidsbotn Fiord (Devon Island), we reach the latest known coordinates of the drifting buoy that was deployed north of Ellesmere Island by Christian Haas in April 2010. The buoy is there! After a long trip, it has not been moving for two weeks, it was probably pushed on shore by some big waves. Antennas are damaged, this is why no more position are sent.
Once the buoy is on board, and after few hours of rest and some preparation, we sail to Fram Sound for a CTD section, for Institute of Ocean Sciences. Despite wind and current, the CTD is storing requested data. France is steering the boat to keep the position at each station, I'm winching the CTD down to the seabed and up, while our two young daughters are watching a cartoon! Then, all happy, we find an shelter, the best for weeks, in the little Bay of Woe. Time to explore the region, before choosing our winter anchorage... A polar bear is lying down on the closest beach, as if to watch us better.

Posted Aug 2011 29 at 17:00 [en - fr]

Wed, 24 Aug 2011, Coup de vent

After five attempts, anchor is holding fine! Last night, Vagabond started drifting, pushed offshore by strong winds. We woke up with a start! For lack of shelter in front of the village, we are exploring Grise Fiord, and looking for a good anchorage without going too far... Later, while I was on land with Léonie and Aurore, anchor slipped once more and Vagabond was moving away again. Fortunately, France was on board to put the boat again at anchor!

Posted Aug 2011 24 at 20:00 [en - fr]

Mon, 22 Aug 2011, Départ et rentrée

A bright interval, tonight, allowed a Twin Otter from Ken Borek company to operate the flight on the Resolute Bay - Grise Fiord route. We were moved to see our colleagues and friends leaving, after an exciting and productive mission, also thinking of the people who died (including the director of Resolute Bay scientific station) in Saturday's plane accident.
More strong emotions today for Léonie, especially, who took part in the start of the new school year. Umimmak School opened her doors after two months of Summer holidays. First Inuktitut lesson for her, very well welcomed in a nine pupils class (three levels). During that time, Aurore was making a new friend at the day-care (day-nursery)!
After school and day-care, more emotions again when meeting with part of the family in France, by Internet.

Posted Aug 2011 22 at 22:00 [en - fr]

Sun, 21 Aug 2011, Grise Fiord

Between Devon Island and Ellesmere Island, a dozen of CTD casts are done across Jones Sound (some Arctic Ocean water is going this way to the Atlantic Ocean). In the middle of the strait, Vagabond stops and drifts, while we are repairing the capricious winch! Happily, wind and swell are moderate.
Then, it is at the end of South Cape Fiord that we drop anchor for a rest day before the end of the cruise. Weather is perfectly calm, tenths of narwhals are swimming around. In fascination, we watch and listen to them for a long time: their back are shinning in the sun, their powerful blows are echoing in the fiord.
Christian was dreaming about fishing and about a glacier trip. Fishing attempts are quite short, from the boat, but a nice trip allows everyone to step on Sydkap Glacier, and see two arctic hares, and footprints from polar bears, wolves, foxes and muskox.
Friday morning, sea is flat, ideal for the scientists to pack all the equipment, while sailing, and to give us orders: icemeter, CTD, winch, and part of the weather station are staying on board. We will follow given protocols to do measurements all along the winter.
At the exit of South Cape Fiord, hundreds of Greenland seals, in small groups, are swimming and jumping like dolphins. Spectacular, unforgettable. On our way, we find a little bay well protected which could be fine to overwinter...
At the end of the day, we get a very friendly welcome in Grise Fiord. Entry formalities to Canada are done in French, in the local office of Royal Canadian Mounted Police, and by phone with Iqaluit authorities (Nunavut capital).
Great meeting with Jon et Erik, from the US, they also just arrived in Grise Fiord after 104 days expedition around Ellesmere Island: Ellesmere Island Circumnavigation. We passed them a few days ago, less than four mile from each other, but too much ice to gather.
Mary, Lea and Christian are still with us, because their flight was cancelled yesterday. Airspace is closed around Resolute Bay, where was a dramatic plane crash.

Posted Aug 2011 21 at 10:00 [en - fr]

Tue, 16 Aug 2011, Avec une douzaine d'ours en DGV

High speed drift: Vagabond just covered over 100km at 2km/h average speed (up to more than 3km/h!), trapped in multiyear ice coming from the Arctic Ocean, all carried away by winds and currents. It was more opportunities for ice thickness data and for new ice cores (chlorophyll, pH and salinity measures). Many polar bears are enjoying these thick and dense ice concentrations to hunt. One of them, intrigued, came and knock at the kitchen window! Our noisy reactions got the better of his curiosity.
So, without any detour and without using the engines for two days, we left Smith Sound and entered Jones Sound, where we hope to recover a drifting buoy (Ice Mass Balance), deployed by Christian in April 2010 in Lincoln Sea, 800km further north. For now, we are finishing CTD sections in Lady Ann Strait, south of Coburg Island, and in front of magnificent Belcher Glacier.
Before leaving Smith Sound, we visited five young biologists working at Alexandra Fiord station for the summer. It was build in 1954 by Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Not far from there, we were happy to watch (at least!) a small group of walruses.

Posted Aug 2011 16 at 15:00 [en - fr]

Thu, 11 Aug 2011, Canada

Vagabond is in Canada since last night! We changed time, there is now six hours difference with France.
The scientists arrived in Qaanaaq two days late, due to a plane break-down in Resolute Bay (Canada). In the end, on August 8th, first day of school in Greenland, Vagabond took on board Christian Haas (University of Alberta, Canada), his daughter Léa, and his colleague Mary O'Brien (Institute of Ocean Sciences, Canada), with all their equipments.
Heading North, Vagabond stopped in Siorapaluk, once more. This time, a little party was organised after the good hunt of a minke whale, villagers invited us spontaneously. A few hours later, we dropped anchor at Etah, historical site of arrival of first men in Greenland, coming from the West. Remains of stone houses are next to more recent huts, used in summer for hunting (muskox, reindeer, fox, walrus, seal...).
The next day, avoiding drifting ices, Vagabond reached Littleton Island. Despite wind and fog, the first task of our mission was accomplished, for the Scottish Association for Marine Science and for the Technical University of Denmark: on top of the island, the weather station is repaired. "Congratulations, data is received now, I just had a phone call from Scotland!", France told us when we were coming back on board Vagabond. A polar bear had only snatched away the main unit, this is why the station was not transmitting anymore since last April!
Wednesday, weather conditions became gradually ideal. The section across Smith Sound was a success: eight hydrographic stations to better understand the strait between Greenland and Canada. Through this strait are some major exchanges between Arctic Ocean and Baffin bay. At each station, Mary is plunging the CTD down to the seabed (300 to 500m), while Christian is measuring, with an icedrill and an electromagnetic icemeter, thickness of the ice floe to which Vagabond is moored.
Then, on Canadian side, on the small Brevoort Island, not far from Cape Sabine and Ellesmere Island, we must inspect the second weather station. This one, set up in 2009 with Henry Larsen ice-breaker, is intact. Data are downloaded, important complement to those from the station on the other side of the strait.
Tonight, blue sky, wind is increasing, gust up to 45 knots, ice floes are drifting fast. An Arctic hare and his young looking at us, we found a little shelter in Alexandra Fjord, not far from the scientific station.

Posted Aug 2011 11 at 18:00 [en - fr]

Wed, 03 Aug 2011, Siorapaluk

It is on Siorapaluk's beach that Vagabond has been thought up, almost thirty five years ago. A boat able to sail in icy waters, and if no good shelter, able to beach for overwinter...
Siorapaluk is the northernmost village in Greenland. Hunting and fishing are regulating the fifty three inhabitants' life, and giving them most of their food needs. In addition, a supply ship is coming only once a year.
We are happy to meet again with Jocelyne Ollivier-Henry, a friend from Brittany, she has been living here part time for the last thirteen years. She showed us her village, and we invited her on board with her friends, and a flock of children! After two days stop, Greenlandic that came with us from Qaanaaq to visit their cousins at Siorapaluk, are coming back home with us.
Coincidence: Siorapaluk is at the same latitude than Inglefield Bay, in Svalbard, where Vagabond spent five winters (2004-2009). About Inglefield Land, here in Greenland, we will approach it next week.
Back to Qaanaaq, Vagabond beaching capacity is used to enter the lagoon, at high tide, and to beach to get diesel.

Posted Aug 2011 03 at 18:00 [en - fr]

Sun, 31 Jul 2011, Qaanaaq

Built sixty years ago, Qaanaaq (Thule in Danish) has today about six hundred inhabitants. Only small boats can enter the lagoon, in front of the village, however not so well protected from westerly and south-easterly winds. Vagabond dropped anchor in three meters of water, outside the lagoon, and is ready to set sail in case the wind is picking up. The next scientific team will board on August 6th, for two weeks, and part of the equipment was already waiting for us here in Qaanaaq. Hans is giving me the parcels. He is holding the local hotel ans is showing me proudly pictures from explorers and adventurers that stayed here before. Hans was two years old when his village was moved here, when the American Thule Air Base was built, in 1951.
As well as watching for missiles and communicating with satellites in orbit, the huge military base is supporting Arctic scientific research projects. So Vagabond is allowed to stop, and we could get some supplies and unexpected ways of entertainment! About a hundred and fifty Americans from US Air Force are working at Thule Air Base, which is mainly running with three hundred and fifty Danish and sixty Greenlandic. This stop was also a chance for a very good first contact with Canadian Coast Guards, escorting a supply ship with their ice-breaker Henry Larsen.
Before reaching Qaanaaq, a hundred kilometers further north, Vagabond stopped in front of two more abandonned villages, Moriussaq and Qeqertarssuaq. Strange feeling to enter a school-church, while everything is inside, except teacher, pupil or faithful.
No walrus seen on our way, but still many seals and birds.

Posted Jul 2011 31 at 09:24 [en - fr]

Sat, 23 Jul 2011, Savissivik

Little village of about 60 inhabitants, including 48 adults, north of Melville Bay. Sumptuous scenery. On the other side of the fjord, the inlandsis is slowly flowing by a few glaciers, generous suppliers of icebergs which are protecting the village from swell. Good anchorage. Behind the houses, the mountain is home for hundreds of thousands of little auks, flying relentlessly to and fro across the sky. Naja and Mario are speaking good English, they welcome us at home. They are in charge of the school, which will open in three weeks for five children. Léonie and Aurore find new games there, among mattresses of an international team of geologists, who is renting the place for five days. They are working for an oil company, to map the region. Life could change very much if exploitation starts...
Mario tells us about walrus hunting, in spring. Naja offers earrings to Léonie, delighted. After muskox and coffee, our little family is taking her turn at the public bath, the only place with running water.
Since Upernavik, stops followed on, depending on weather, needs and wishes. On the very little Island of Kipako, we met again with the three birdwatchers. They explained how they can estimate variation of quantities of fishes and plankton, by studying chicks every year. After the guided tour, two of the scientists came to get fresh water on board. Vagabond then dropped anchor at Nuussuaq, then at Kullorsuaq, the two last villages of the West Coast which we could not reach last month because of late ice breaking up. At Savissivik, we enter Greenland's Great North district.

Posted Jul 2011 23 at 03:26 [en - fr]

Fri, 15 Jul 2011, Upernavik

Overhaul for Vagabond, who is having some scars of the long fight against Melville Bay ices. Scientists and cameramen left yesterday for France, with less data and pictures than expected; young walruses and their mothers will keep part of the mystery on their communication mode. Bearded seals rutting melody was easier to record, as well as narwhal song. New pictures.
When arriving in Upernavik, July 12th, we saw the ship of Danemark's Queen, who we already met a year ago in Faroes. Very much expected in the village, she was suppose to come by plane, which had to turn back due to fog. Her boat, with VIP and journalists, started again without her!
Yesterday we met three colleagues of the little auk team, for who we worked in 2005 and 2010 on the East Coast of Greenland. They are about to spend two weeks on a little island to study guillemots and kittiwakes.
News of Piem: he left Iceland this morning, heading for North-West Passage on board Eshamy, Jeffrey's sail boat. We met him in Murmansk two years ago. He was attempting the North-East Passage without permission, but he turned back because of ice and fog.
No more ice ahead of us now, up to Qaanaaq (Thule). Ices didn't hold last gale (July 9th and 10th), as shown by, among others, radar images sent by Brest team of CLS (collaboration on SIDARUS project). Our stop in Upernavik will be as short as possible, we are looking forward to see the other side of Melville Bay, and maybe, watch some walruses!

Posted Jul 2011 15 at 01:37 [en - fr]

Sun, 10 Jul 2011, Demi-tour

Ice was not opening any way out of Melville Bay, scientists were getting worried not to be on time in Qaanaaq, so Vagabond turned back, despite southerly wind forecast. We are now trying to reach Upernavik reluctantly, two hundred nautical miles south. This is the closest airport. Facing wind, stronger than forecast (gust up to 50 knots), with fog and rain, forced us to shelter for a day and a half. After weeks of sun and calm weather, after having dreamed about gale to move all ice around, this low couldn't have come at a worse time! But we could discover a little island often visited by Greenlandics, as remains of kayaks and camps show. And what a pleasure walking a bit on land!

Posted Jul 2011 10 at 19:00 [en - fr]

Thu, 07 Jul 2011, Vrai ours et mirages

Melville Bay is keeping us. Past years, there was ice in the area up until the middle of July. But this year, there is a lot! We are studying carefully daily ice charts, hoping to find easily walruses beyond this frozen area; and hoping that the team will be able to get their flight from Qaanaaq on July 13th...
While Vagabond, slowly, is opening up her way through melting pack ice, a polar bear showed up yesterday, and we could come near another one today. Then, we passed very close to a young rind seal not shy at all, obviously he never saw a hunter. But the big ship seen by few of us has disappeared! After several days stuck in pack ice, we are on the brink of this type of hallucination.

Posted Jul 2011 07 at 03:55 [en - fr]

Fri, 01 Jul 2011, A l'écoute

Our progress across Melville Bay is slow and winding, as shown by our track. Ice situation (sea also Danish or Canadian charts), can explain our difficulties, despite the beautiful weather prevailing since mid-June. We have perfect ice conditions for walruses; scientists are looking for them on ice because walruses are more shy on land due to hunting in Greenland and Nunavut. This is why we came in this area before ice breaking-up! Thanks to the hydrophones we could listen to seals, narwhals, whales... but still no walruses.

Posted Jul 2011 01 at 03:43 [en - fr]

Wed, 29 Jun 2011, Errances

We have been in pack ice for the last ten days, making slow progress towards the North, always looking for seals and walruses for the scientific project. Melville Bay seems determined to keep pack ice longer than usual, and walruses are probably set up in that inaccessible area for now! So listening and playbacks are focused on bearded seals. It's about watching reactions of males, each one having his own territory, when the song of another male is played with the underwater speaker of Isabelle and Thierry. It is the female seduction period, rivalries can be hard between males, and reactions very different to this synthetic intruder!

Posted Jun 2011 29 at 03:04 [en - fr]

Tue, 28 Jun 2011, Nuussuaq

June 23rd. Vagabond is gliding on a sea like a mirror, until her stem slowly climbs on pack ice. Three Greenlanders are approaching by dog-sled. They accept my invitation: they tie their dogs to the boat and they come on board. Nuussuaq is five kilometres away, and pack ice is fragile with many holes at this time of the year. Snowmobiles are resting until next winter. Dogs are the safest solution to go from the village to the open sea, before the complete breaking up. Now, six people are arriving by motor boat. While speeding up his powerful outboard engine, the pilot is handling his mobile phone with his gloves made from polar bear skin. Then, everybody is coming on board to visit Vagabond, before going to the village. Two dog teams are pulling, on ice, the motor boat, two sleds, and about ten people waving at us happily. In the background are snowy mountains and sunny ice cap. The scene could be from another time.

Posted Jun 2011 28 at 01:19 [en - fr]

Thu, 23 Jun 2011, En dérive

Again, Vagabond is moored to an ice block and is drifting with pack ice (0,4 knots to the North!). This time, there is not enough open water to sail ahead, so we wait. Wind, current and thaw are changing tirelessly the scenery, a way can open any time. Two days ago, for summer solstice, despite the sun still high at midnight, and a sea like a mirror, it was fog that made us look for a place to stop for the "night". No need to keep going if we cannot see properly the animals (seals, whales, many birds, still no walrus...)! So everybody enjoyed walking on pack ice after several days wandering between ice floes without disembarking.

Posted Jun 2011 23 at 19:54 [en - fr]

Sun, 19 Jun 2011, Uummannaq

An ice strip about two kilometres wide was on our way, on June 17th. It was time for the new crew to learn about sailing in pack ice, using the crow's nest and ice poles. Then, it was open water up to Uummannaq. Long detour for a short stop to get more details about walruses in the area, and about ice situation. I was also the opportunity to have a quick look at a place where Vagabond could spend some time for another project (2012-2014...). Peter, black halibut fisherman, immediately invited us at home to answer all our questions. No doubt, we must reach the ice edge, further North, to find walruses.

Posted Jun 2011 19 at 16:28 [en - fr]

Sun, 19 Jun 2011, Qeqertarsuaq

On June 16th, Vagabond crossed Disko Bay and stopped at Qeqertarsuaq. There we met Mads Fage, he has been watching and recording whales for years, with his partner Outi Tervo who Isabelle knows pretty well! So we have plenty of things to ask and share. Outi has just left for a "whale" cruise, heading North as well. But already from the village, France, Léonie and Aurore could watch two whales, between icebergs slowly drifting along the coast.

Posted Jun 2011 19 at 16:26 [en - fr]

Wed, 15 Jun 2011, Sisimiut

Luckily, current is going our way to sail down the long Kangerlussuaq fjord, and Vagabond is quite quickly back to Davis Strait. Stop at Sisimiut yesterday morning, to gather information on animals seen in the area, on ice and on weather forecast. It seems that we should start searching for walruses at the ice edge north of Disko Bay.

Posted Jun 2011 15 at 01:59 [en - fr]

Wed, 15 Jun 2011, Kangerlussuaq

June 13th, Vagabond is at the appointment to welcome the team "walrus". Just above the polar circle, at the end of a magnificent fjord long of 170 km, is the main airport of Greenland. Scientists Isabelle Charrier and Thierry Aubin are joining us for one month, in order to record walruses. A project supported by Institute Paul-Emile Victor and by National Geographic. Charlotte Blan and Nicolas Gilbert arrived with them, sent by Océanopolis (Brest), to make a film about the expedition.
It is also here that Carlos and Piem are leaving us. Carlos will be back in Tunisia in a few days, to serve fine cuisine to the French Ambassador's guests. While my dear little brother Piem is starting a new life: only with his backpack, carefully prepared, he has ahead of him the easiest but also most difficult trip. For many months or years, without planned route neither agenda, and with a minimum budget. He is first thinking about a one week trek... if mosquitoes are OK. Then, he would be looking for a boat to go to North America. I'm pretty move leaving my best homeless, and I suddenly find Vagabond quite heavy, complicated, safe and comfortable.

Posted Jun 2011 15 at 01:57 [en - fr]

Wed, 15 Jun 2011, Nuuk

Ice were about to keep Vagabond near Narsaq, we had to work hard to find our way out of the fjords! So much that we broke our sonar. Then, it was open water all the way up to Nuuk, where we spent two days near the yacht of a little Austrian family about to attempt the North-West Passage. On June 9th morning, a short while after our arrival, the French Ambassador came to visit us to invite the entire crew to French Days in Nuuk. This was absolutely not expected, and we were very glad to meet again with Max Audibert, Jean-Christophe Victor, Henriette Rasmussen, Pierre Tavernier... around a nice buffet with French cheese and wine! The following day, Max came for a little party on board, as we were happy being together again (we met in 2000 on the East Coast), also to say goodbye to our team mates Léa and Vincent (now going surfing in Iceland), and for my birthday. For Léonie and Aurore, the best moment of our stop in Nuuk was at the swimming pool. It could be more than a year before we will see again a real city.

Posted Jun 2011 15 at 00:00 [en - fr]

Sat, 11 Jun 2011, Carlos

News about Vagabond on Carlos' blog, our friend Chef at French Embassy in Tunisia:

Posted Jun 2011 11 at 07:20 [en - fr]

Mon, 06 Jun 2011, Ipiutaq

Vagabond is leaving Ipiutaq guest farm, and is heading for Nuuk, Greenland's capital. Arrival is planned in two days. The junior seamen Arthur and Arnoul are staying with Jacky Simoud, and will be back to school in Brest by the end of the week. Jacky is French and has been leaving in Greenland for 35 years, he promised to get our two crews busy up to their departure! He was on board last night, at anchor at Ipiutaq, for a little party with Agathe, her husband Kalista, and their daughter Ina, same age than Léonie. We have been waiting for this moment for a long time, to share our experiences with this little French-Greenlandic family. They are breeding sheeps and have a guest house. Somehow, there are many similarities between holding a remote farm in Greenland, and keeping a floating hut in the Arctic.

Three days ago, after sailing through and around drifting ices (and their many seals!) for a long time, keeping us away from Cape Farewell, Vagabond entered the magnificent fjords of South Greenland. It took us three weeks, since our departure from Brest, to meet up again: France, Léonie and Aurore have been expecting us for already nine days in Narsaq! It is also there that our friend Carlos joined our crew, and we are now eight people on board. A few pieces of ice taken on our way allowed us to have some good fresh water, until we could fill up tanks yesterday from a nice waterfall.

Posted Jun 2011 06 at 20:01 [en - fr]

Tue, 31 May 2011, Cap Farvel

It is still early in the season, and drifting ices are pushing Vagabond and her crew away from Cape Farewell. After several lows, ices will soon start playing with our track! We will probably not see the famous cape, but weather forecast is quite good for us to meet again with icy waters and then fjords. The next ice chart will tell us more tomorrow. And maybe Aurore, Léonie and France will see us arrive in Narsaq on June 2nd or 3rd.

For now, on board, Léa, Vincent, Arthur, Arnoul, Piem and I are living together nicely in less rough conditions, and are dreaming about a glass of really fresh water.

Posted May 2011 31 at 19:51 [en - fr]

Wed, 25 May 2011, Au milieu de l'Atlantique Nord

When leaving Kilmore and her Fish and Chips on 17th May, Vagabond sailed across the Irish Sea, protected from Westerly winds, up to Port Ellen, on Islay Island, in Scotland. Technical stop on 19th May before crossing the North Atlantic Ocean to Greenland: the auto pilot is working again, also the winch, fresh water tanks are full...

Amazing coincidence, we are moored for these few hours near Damien's sail boat, on his way to Spitsbergen. He was working at Ny Alesund for IPEV and took care of our dogs Jin, Frost and Imiaq when Vagabond left Svalbard (summer 2009). At least I meet him, he is wearing a Tee-Shirt Vagabond and has nice pictures of our dogs in his boat!

Then, it is a quite difficult progress to the West, doing our best with each low passing over (we don't count them anymore!). Not much good winds for this rough trip, in conditions getting a bit more complicate with sea water in diesel or leaking windows, for instance... Our main goal is to reach Greenland with minimum damaged on Vagabond and on her heavy equipment and supplies. Fortunately, there is a good spirit on board, six of us are well sea adapted now, and know more and more about the boat. Few pilot whales and many birds, watched mainly when weather is better. For Christian, our faithful and important weather advisor, "the crew will remember this cruise for a long time". Despite the strong westerly winds forecast from tomorrow, drifting ice are still surrounding pretty much Cape Farewell (Southern tip of Greenland).

France, Léonie and Aurore, if the Island's volcano agree (no yet black sand on Vagabond's deck!), should arrive tonight in Narsaq, South of Greenland, where they will wait for us, for a few days or more.

Posted May 2011 25 at 12:32 [en - fr]

Tue, 17 May 2011, Outre Manche

Moving departure from Brest, last Friday. Followed by four Greenlandic kayaks, and the yacht of the Junior Seamen School, Vagabond slowly headed north, heavily loaded for another long polar mission.

Pictures of final preparations.

Short stop at Isles of Scilly Saturday night, before meeting up with Oceanopolis film team in Kilmore, South Ireland, for more shooting of "Octave and Zoe". Very nice day among birds yesterday.

Posted May 2011 17 at 10:13 [en - fr]

Fri, 06 May 2011, Derniers préparatifs

Vagabond will be sailing from Brest on Friday, May 13th... around 13:00! Final preparations and loading supplies, thank you very much to all our partners.

In two trips at sea, to shoot a feature film on biodiversity, on the initiative of Oceanopolis, a ROV was take onboard. Conclusive tests for future missions.

Posted May 2011 06 at 02:17 [en - fr]

Sun, 17 Apr 2011, Fin des peintures

Days Open House today, for the staff of IPEV (French Polar Institute), with whom Vagabond worked since 2000. A few days ago, the red boat regained her name, her propellers, and her element!

Posted Apr 2011 17 at 23:30 [en - fr]

Mon, 28 Mar 2011, Rouge !

Vagabond is red again!

Posted Mar 2011 28 at 02:08 [en - fr]

Sat, 12 Mar 2011, Séisme

Eight years ago, on Easter day, Vagabond stopped in Shiogama, in the beautiful Matsushima Bay, not far from Sendai... This region has just been devastated by earthquakes and tsunamis.

Posted Mar 2011 12 at 17:56 [en - fr]

Sat, 12 Mar 2011, De toutes les couleurs

Sanding, painting, talks, short trips... We now focus on preparations, we must not forget anything, departure in 49 days!

Posted Mar 2011 12 at 17:51 [en - fr]

Sun, 13 Feb 2011, En attente de sablage

Waiting for a better weather to sand the deck and the hull of Vagabond, we are more working inside at the moment, and sometimes going for other activities (see the album).

The boat refit is supported by Océanopolis (harbour and crane), International (paints), Sanimarin (new WC), Eberspacher (central heating), Yanmar (engines spare parts), Globe-Electronics (sonar), Bilou and Kairos team (winches repair), Under The Pole (diving tanks), Bayard (kids magazines)... Thanks to all!

Posted Feb 2011 13 at 16:47 [en - fr]

Mon, 03 Jan 2011, Bonne Année

Between work sessions on board Vagabond and end of year parties, a little visit to Alan and Julien in their deep freezer (Pôle Nord 2012), a few beach games at Aber-Wrac'h... and a kayak trip on 1st January in Morlaix Bay. Meanwhile Ecotroll is sailing through icy canals and is getting close to Lyon, her home port.

Happy New Year to you all!

Posted Jan 2011 03 at 00:03 [en - fr]

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