Aurore, Léonie, Eric and I allow ourselves a little week to stroll or explore, before setting off across the ocean back toward Brittany.

In the small bay of Kilagtoq not far from Qaqortoq, Eric takes Aurore diving near an iceberg!

Heading east, we pass by Qaqortoq again and then set course for the hot springs of Uunartoq! We could stay there for hours. Several Greenlandic families come ashore with their picnics — it’s the local recreational stop.

We then discover Nanortaliq and its surroundings under a dreamlike sun before seeking shelter far from the bulk of the forecast gale. The dramatic clouds against alpine peaks set the atmosphere, and we are happy to enter through the small pass into the wide bay of the tiny village of Tasiusaq.

However, the wind weaves its streaks of gusts there, and our anchor seems never to hold! We re-anchor at least four times, night falls, and the GPS traces our erratic drifting paths, anchor dangling at the end of 60 meters of chain… Early the next morning, while the anchor finally holds after a few hours, Vagabond’s stern is just a few meters from the rocks, and we have the leisure to enjoy the close visit of curious sheeps! When the depth sounder shows less than a meter under the hull, we set off again, chain dangling… In the end, we experience 24 hours of sliding in this bay before the calm returns and we feel as if we are on a mirror lake. We can finally stretch our legs, serenely, toward the large Tasersuaq lake at the bottom of the valley.

Before reaching Aappilattoq in the maze of the long Prince Christian Passage and its enormous cliffs, we anchor at a fjord intersection for a bivouac, comfortably settled each on our moss mattress, noses to the stars and the northern lights.

Aappilattoq and its tiny niche of peaceful water, well sheltered by high walls, finally welcomes three sailboats! We moor at a quay half the length of Vagabond, peaceful… After walking through the small, secluded village, to the sound of a calm accordionist on his doorstep, we take time to explore the weather windows to cross the Atlantic, and without delay, set off toward the exit of Prins Christian Sund. There stands an old automated and abandoned weather station, overlooking the open sea. Stunning view, letting us know it is time to go!

On the evening of August 1st, we cast off for Ireland. With the following wind, we almost made it in eight days! But from strong to very strong conditions, the crossing was punctuated by two waypoints to pick further north, recommended by our friend and router Christian Dumard, to avoid the worst… the storm still caught up with us: 24 hours from Ireland, the black clouds of the tail of a depression that had become too active destroyed our mainsail, shredded! It must be said that with the anemometer stuck between 50 and up to 65 knots, we spent 8 hours in a rather “survival” mode! But our faithful Vagabond is sturdy. More than my arms, stiff with cramps at the helm… We broke all of Vagabond’s speed records: many surfs at 11, then a memorable one at 13 knots!!! Sporty but productive.