• Brume Savissivik

Little village of about 60 inhabitants, including 48 adults, north of Melville Bay. Sumptuous scenery. On the other side of the fjord, the inlandsis is slowly flowing by a few glaciers, generous suppliers of icebergs which are protecting the village from swell. Good anchorage. Behind the houses, the mountain is home for hundreds of thousands of little auks, flying relentlessly to and fro across the sky. Naja and Mario are speaking good English, they welcome us at home. They are in charge of the school, which will open in three weeks for five children. Léonie and Aurore find new games there, among mattresses of an international team of geologists, who is renting the place for five days. They are working for an oil company, to map the region. Life could change very much if exploitation starts...

Mario tells us about walrus hunting, in spring. Naja offers earrings to Léonie, delighted. After muskox and coffee, our little family is taking her turn at the public bath, the only place with running water.

Since Upernavik, stops followed on, depending on weather, needs and wishes. On the very little Island of Kipako, we met again with the three birdwatchers. They explained how they can estimate variation of quantities of fishes and plankton, by studying chicks every year. After the guided tour, two of the scientists came to get fresh water on board. Vagabond then dropped anchor at Nuussuaq, then at Kullorsuaq, the two last villages of the West Coast which we could not reach last month because of late ice breaking up. At Savissivik, we enter Greenland's Great North district.