At about one hour sailing from Grise Fiord, Vagabond dropped anchor away from the swell that keeps us from going ashore to the village. Summits are drifted with new snow, and the stove has been relighted for the first time yesterday. Before, a chimney sweep's brush was improvised with an old cable found on a beach!
When leaving Bay of Woe, we saw another polar bear, on a rock; he was like waiting for pack ice to form, for easier seal hunting. Front winds and up to six knots contrary current hindered the CTD casts planned in Cardigan Strait, we headed East at almost thirteen knots. First fjord on the left, Walrus Fiord, has the right name: we sailed close to about twenty walruses on the beach, exceptional encounter. But a little further, the small bay we spotted on the map was very shallow and with strong tidal currents: all engine power was needed to avoid being pushed on shoals.
In Hourglass Bay, we visited the hut set up by the crew of yacht Northanger, in 1999. Seven people, including a two and half years old girl, spent the winter here in 1999-2000, a century after Otto Sverdrup's expedition (four winters on board Fram). The place is nice, but quite far from the village (140km). We are in touch with our predecessors, who are sharing experience and advices.
Arctic hares are gambolling on the nearby tundra, many narwhals and seals are going up and down the fjord, it is time to feed as much as possible, before the cold. No more permanent day light. In the middle of the night, half-light is intensifying every day. In less than two months, sun will disappear totally, until February!