Chez Ole à Savissivik
Dernière escale au Groenland pour Vagabond, Savissivik, à peine 50 habitants; c'est le plus proche village de Grise Fiord, notre destination finale de l'autre côté du détroit de Smith, au Nunavut (Canada). Entourés par d'immenses icebergs, nous jetons l'ancre devant le village enneigé et débarquons tant bien que mal sur la berge balayée par les vagues. Le temps pour Léonie et Aurore de retrouver le square bien apprécié l'été dernier, et nous voilà déjà chez Ole Kristensen, qui nous accueille spontanément dans sa petite maison en bois. Ole est chasseur, et fait vivre sa famille de huit enfants avec les fruits de sa chasse. Ses deux aînés sont à l'école à Qaanaaq et à Aasiaat, trois autres sont à l'école du village (6 élèves au total, de 6 à 13 ans), les plus jeunes sont encore à la maison. Léonie et Aurore sont vite intégrées dans ce monde d'enfants ! Ole nous raconte comment il chasse l'ours (environ cinq par an), le morse, ou le narval (avec les [photos Last stop in Greenland for Vagabond, Savissivik, less than 50 people; it is the closest village from Grise Fiord, our final destination on the other side of Smith Sound, in Nunavut (Canada). Surrounded by many huge icebergs, we drop anchor in front of the village covered in snow, and we land with great difficulty on the beach swept across by waves. Léonie and Aurore are happy to find again the playground they enjoyed last year. Soon we are invited by Ole Kristensen in his little wooden house. Ole is a full time hunter, and is making a leaving for his wife and their eight children. Their two oldest children are studying in Qaanaaq and in Aasiaat, three others are at school in the village (6 pupils total, from 6 to 13 years old), the young ones are still at home. Léonie and Aurore are quickly integrated in this children's world! Ole is telling us how he is hunting polar bears (about five per year), walruses, or narwhals (showing us Nathalie and Alain Antognelli's pictures). He has 25 dogs, but he has to use his boat sometimes in summer, unfortunately because fuel is expensive. At 12 years old, his son Qaaqqutsiannguaq is already hunting with his five dogs.
Very few foreigners are coming to Savissivik, and our visit at the school turns to be a little event! A helicopter is coming twice a week, a cargo ship once a year. No road, no car, few old snowmobiles, but Internet and mobile phone for most people. Somehow, life in the village could change soon: Shell is coming here tomorrow to explain the company's prospecting in the area...