After the flat West coast of Foxe Basin, it is a pleasure to see again
mountainous South Baffin. And to discover Cape Dorset, the nicest town I saw
Looking for a shower, we are invited at the school. The high school burned one
year ago, so the elementary school is open to the youngest every morning and
to the teenagers in the afternoons. The principal, an enthusiastic Kenyan,
takes us to every class for an informal exchange with all the students. Then,
from his office he plays a piano composition he wrote specially for this
school. Good musician, he plays 7 instruments, and sometimes let everybody
listen to him through the speakers in the entire school! But about the
showers, they are broken.
Ooloosie Ashevak, the school secretary, invites us at home... And there we
can't stop speaking about our good friends from Grise Fiord, Larry and Annie,
her uncle and aunt, and about their daughters Laisa and Arna. Arna was also
Leonie's teacher! The following day we are all invited to her daughter's
birthday party. I bake a cake, to share after the feast made of beluga maktak,
frozen caribou, fish soup and fresh bannok. Such a warm and simple welcoming!
Adamie, Ooloosie's husband, is a carver, as most men here. Because Cape Dorset
is the artistic capital of Nunavut! We are lucky to have a good tour of the
lithographic and silkscreen printing workshop. The artists are only from here,
coming from artist families most of the time. All their production are sold in
Toronto. There are also drawers and painters. We meet Tim, and the boss of the
workshop who just came back from holidays discovers his last draws with us. I
admire his sense of lines and volume... He shares his time between art and
hunting. It is on the land that he observes, gets inspiration, finds his
subjects and defines his ideas. Then, without any draft and with a sure hand
he achieves the piece which had to be born.
There is also a carving gallery. The soap stone comes from a place at one day
by speed boat from Cape Dorset. The gallery doesn't have the capacity to
welcome all the carvings from town, so people are also selling in the street.
Then we ballast Vagabond with some emerald-green polar bears coming strait
from Baffin hillside!
Alicia is leaving us here. She brings back most of the coralline samples to
Jochen laboratory in Toronto. The last point to check was not so good, but we
hope to get better collection for the last dives of the season.