Walking on water, by piem

  • Tester la glace

That morning, it was tempting to go explore the ice a bit further. On the nearby peninsula, I could see some dogs. With the binoculars, I even thought I could see a group of three people. So despite the silence on the radio channel of the village, I headed off to cross the fjord by foot.

Three kilometres of suspense hiking on water, the ice pick in my hands to test the ice ahead of me. As I got closer, the human shapes I had seen on the peninsula became some old rusty remains again.

But the prints of dogs in the fresh snow were not lying: at least, they had made it through. I kept going.

About forty minutes later, I was at the village, moved and relieved to reach solid ground and civilisation.

A memorable evening at Yves and Céline's, with Anita, Andrew, and Mark, sharing good meals and playing music. I could not dream of a better way to break up with my solitude.

Voluntary prisoner

  • Premiers pas

It's here! The ice is here! The silence took the place of the sound of the waves. The calm the one of the swell. The blue became white.

This time, the boat heads in the right direction: northbound. The ice thickens, day by day. When the wind stops, I like to sit outside to listen to the silence. I can hear the seals scratching under this ice. A dog barking away in the village. My heart beat in my ears.

A few days back, I tried the moving experiment of crossing the rail. Climb down the steps. Put one foot on the fresh ice. Then another. Hands off... It holds!

The ice is now about twenty centimeters thick. I have installed the dinghy and folded open the ladder. My domain became suddenly bigger, and it's shyly that I start exploring the largest garden of the bay.

Soon, I should be able to walk across the three kilometers of the fjord and to join my neighbours, after more than two weeks enjoying alone the landscape around me.

On Antarctic sea ice

  • Trajet Astrolabe R0 2014
  • Glaciometre devant L Astrolabe

Every year, L'Astrolabe is doing five trips (R0 to R4) from Hobart harbour (Tasmania, Australia), to Dumont d'Urville station (Terre Adelie, Antarctic), to supply IPEV French missions. For about three years, ice didn't break up around the station, and the ship cannot dock. Unloading fuel has to be done via the ice, something new over there. This is to assist the new logistics that I went to the other side of the world! Before driving heavy convoys on sea ice, I took part into reconnaissance and did ice thickness measurements between L'Astrolabe and the station, with an EM31, the same instrument that we have been using for about ten years in the Arctic. On November 1st, it was not possible for L'Astrolabe to approach less than 75km from the continent, but the supply had to begin as soon as possible, tanks were getting low. See pictures.

Setting foot in Antarctica, discovering Dumont d'Urville station, meeting up again with albatrosses, getting to know the emperors and Adelie penguins, embarking on L'Astrolabe (which sailed the Northeast passage eleven years before Vagabond), helping the French scientific missions in Antarctica, travelling around the world ... what a trip!

Ice jams, by piem

  • Pleine Lune

In the end, it was on the third take that the ice settled. The first sheets of fresh ice were blown away by the dozens of knots of wind howling in the night, scratching the hull in the strangest noises. Twice I woke up in the morning to discover the ice had gone and the waves were back.

With their little boats, locals keep hunting when the ice is still only a few centimetres thick. That's when Robbie came to share a coffee a few days ago, breaking the fresh ice. And all the ice went again. Starting over.

On a clear day, the sun came to greet us in what will be its last apparition of the year, casting its oblique rays in the bay, crossing the fjord horizontally from one hill to the other and in less than an hour.

Yesterday, the ice had settled again, and Johnny visited me. This time, to take me to shore, only a few hours, enough time to share a lunch with Yves and Céline. So nice to break my solitude, be it for a few minutes.

On the way back, I asked his brother Amo, on his powerful boat, to push Vagabond so it would point North, the bow heading to the dominant winds. He told me no straightforwardly, but started driving in large loops, breaking the thin ice around the boat. Free once again, Vagabond kept swinging a few more hours in the wind before stopping in the cold of the night.

Northern sky, by piem

  • Aurore dans le mat

Already three weeks on board, and I still have a serious pile of books to read, and a a long list of things to do. I tried though, to make use of a full week of heavy snow falls to stay warm inside and get used to withstand the siege of the ice.

And snow there is, a lot this year. Even locals seem to agree on that. It is good news: more water for spring, and less stones under the skis.

Friday, movie night at the Hamlet, the town's council house: Céline had organised the projection of "Vanishing Point". A chance for me to meet part of the community, and to fill my eyes with smiles amongst all these kids.

Saturday, back on the boat, I almost wished it would be my last ride on the water. But the ice didn't seem to come. An elder was remembering how a few years ago, the little bay where the boat is was freezing much earlier; they would come to hunt seal.

Yesterday afternoon, a boat approached before turning around Vagabond: Yves, Céline, Anita and Andrew came to pay a visit! So nice to have guests on board, and share the delicious food they brought.

Tonight, clouds made place to a sky full of stars, and a vast brush came to paint a dim green light: my first northern lights.

When I went out to admire the show, I felt a strange silence, and found the boat suprisingly still. The ice has started forming around the boat.

Ready, by piem

  • Lever de lune sur Qikiqtarjuaq

After reaching a safe haven with a nice collection of tiny flights, I joined Vagabond at her mooring about ten days ago, moved to board again on her red hull that I know well, more than three years after leaving her under the same latitudes, on the other side of Davis Straight.

I quickly found some of my marks and habits again, and thanks to the precious help of Yves and his excellent onshore routing, sorted out the few remaining technical questions. And here I am, ready for a few weeks of immobile navigation. I enjoy each moment passing by, the few rays of sun that still come to dazzle a porthole, and the stunning view on the neighbours "cruise ships", those large tabular icebergs that came to cast their anchor at the entrance of the fjord.

The news from the antipodes and from Brittany are good. The complete crew will join me just in time to celebrate winter solstice. In the mean time, "country food" stew simmered on the stove, home-made bread with chestnut flour, season's soups and broths, the crossing of autumn also promises to be culinary.

The antipodes! by Eric on board L'Astrolabe

  • Vagabond au mouillage

15 years ago, on Oct 28, 1999, I bought Vagabond. Since then, my brother Piem has been looking after our website, to share our stories with everyone. Today is also Piem's birthday, and he is alone on board for nearly two months. Looking after Vagabond while the sea is about to freeze. To celebrate this big day, I couldn't be any further, as we are entering pack ice in the Antarctic, on board L'Astrolabe!

Ready for winter

  • Chasse au narval
  • Vagabond dans le port de Qikiqtarjuaq
  • Dans l'annexe pour aller a l'ecole

That's it, Vagabond is ready for winter. Fuel, water, food... Maintenance, storage, cleaning... Converting our boat to a hut is done again, we'll be overwintering for the tenth time.

When we arrived in Qikiqtarjuaq, October 6, many children were on the beach shouting "welcome back!". The drone was released to film the end of the long summer journey (almost 7000km). But he fall down into the sea due to some unexplained loss of control!

On October 7, Leonie met with her friends and with her new teacher, while Aurore was entering school for the first time in Nunavut.

On Sunday, 31 boats were hunting narwhals right next to us, what a show!

On Tuesday, Clementine and Adrien flew to southern Canada, looking for a plane for their next long adventure, starting in June.

On Wednesday, France and the girls flew to Paris.

Yesterday I gave the keys of the boat to Yves, the engineer of the village, who will be watching Vagabond awaiting the arrival of my brother Piem. He will then be alone on board for two months until our return in December.

I'm leaving for a one-month trip to Antarctica for IPEV on board [L'Astrolabe](http:

// (follow ship's track here).


  • Vagabond depuis le drone
  • Escale a Itilleq

Little and very welcoming village, about 130 inhabitants, peaceful and clean, Itilleq is our last stop in Greenland. We have been in the area for six days, waiting for the best weather to cross Davis Strait (to avoid head winds and freezing sprays). There we are, departure in a few hours for Qikiqtarjuaq!

From September 24th to 26th, Vagabond is in Nuuk, the big city in Greenland: swmimming pool, restaurants, malls, shipshandlers... Eleven years to the day after our first stop in Nuuk (at the end of the Arctic circumnavigation), the capital is well bigger and modernized!

We meet Clementine and Adrien's friends: Jens is pilot for Air Greenland, he has done a lot of search and rescue flights. Thomas has been air traffic controller for many years in Greenland. Above all, they both have their own little planes or helicopter, to travel with their family, like air gipsies. They can go on forever, it is great to share their passion!

As the weather is not good enough to sail strait to Qikiqtarjuaq, we keep following the West coast of Greenland. The very well protected harbour of Maniitsoq is welcoming Vagabond for a short stop, surrounded by mountains attracting mountaineers and skiers. A little later, while sailing, Clementine and Adrien fly the drone a couple of times: magnificent views on our escapade!

Landscape is getting snowy, lakes and streams are freezing, long nights give us more chance to watch northern lights, and the stove is on day and night. Time to reach our winter quarters!

Follow Vagabond's track here.

Pictures of summer 2014 journey.

Heading to Qikiqtarjuaq

  • Maree basse

Stopped at Ipiutaq, time to wait for better weather, and to see our friends about to start gathering their hundreds of sheeps.

Winter projects are confirmed, we are heading to Qikiqtarjuaq, Nunavut, on the East coast of Baffin Island, in Canada. There, our friends, our dogs, the school, and quite a lot of equipment are waiting for us for another winter in the same little bay 3 kilometres away from the village.

Summer missions are done, five great and intense weeks in Tasiilaq region. We were delighted to discover again that part of East Greenland, successively with our colleagues and friends Laurent Geoffroy, Michael Charavin, and Christian Morel, and their respective groups.

The last group left last week, while Clémentine and Adrien joined us for the long trip back. They know the route from the sky, when they flew around the world by ultralight plane. Pilots (Wings for Science), they were quickly sea adapted and they are sharing watches with France and me. Nights are long now, drifting ice is sometimes hard to see due to swell and precipitation, despite the powerful headlight and the radar.

Our friend Christian Dumard, routeur, is looking after us: conditions were good since we left Kulusuk, smooth sea, favourable currents and winds, northern lights and moon light, it was pretty easy to zigzag between numerous growlers. Only one short stop was needed, Wednesday night. When approaching the coast and a possible shelter, wind was suddenly gusty (100km/h), visibility very poor in flurries of snow, one engine stopped for a moment, and the main sail got slightly damaged. Not long after, at second attempt, the anchor was holding, the crew could rest.

We enjoyed once more the southern fjords to avoid Cape Farvel! Minke and humpback whales welcomed us on the West coast. Aurore and Léonie were overexcited.

Clémentine and Adrien cam with a drone for Vagabond, first trial yesterday, at Ipiutaq, amazing! Fun and useful, the pictures it can take are beautiful.

Before leaving Kulusuk, the pilots could organize a photo mission for Laurent Geoffroy. I went with them in the rented P68, it was my first time in a plane in Greenland (where we already spent eight summer seasons)! After four hours of flight and thousands of pictures, studied geological massif will be soon examined thoroughly in 3D on a computer. It was fascinating to see from above these fjords, islands, glaciers, well explored with Vagabond during 2000, 2001 and 2014 missions.

Follow Vagabond's track here.