It's Sunday, the weather is nice (-35°C), our little family is getting ready
for a day out on the ice, everyone is excited! I pack in the sled the usual
safety equipment, rifle, fuel... and my diving gear. France is sitting on the
snowmobile with me, our daughters Aurore (5) and Leonie (8) like it better
inside the sledge, on musk ox and sheep skins, warmly dressed in their Inuit
clothing. We need about half an hour drive on pretty smooth ice to go from
Vagabond to the dive site.
Sammy is already under water for a first dive. His wife Ena is standing near
the hole, holding the safety rope that connects Sammy to the surface. If he
pulls three times, she will help him to quickly reach the surface. Close to
the hole, Sammy and Philip, two of the four divers in town, set up a hut with
a stove, they move it any time they want to change diving site (ice is cut
with a chainsaw). I come in with my equipment to unfreeze, and it's time for a
picnic. Sammy is just coming out of the water with a net full of clams (Mya
truncata and Serripes groenlandicus). While he comes to warm up and have a
coffee in the hut, France helps me to put on all my equipment. The dives
usually last thirty minutes, 15 to 20 meters deep, the water is at -2°C. A
diver is coming back out when his tank is almost empty!
I'm ready to dive, with a light on my head, a camera, a net to collect clams,
sea urchins and algae. Soon I will also take what is needed to collect
sediments and an instrument to suck the algae that grow under the ice (very
few in this season due to lack of light). I explore, I film, I follow
scientific protocols, and I also collect clams to offer to some friends in the
village and for our own meal tonight! On the surface, our wives are looking
after our lifelines. They are happy to be together; Ena is the Inuktitut
teacher at school, Aurore and Leonie love her. Hunters stop by from time to
time, they come to take news and clams, and to drink tea. Diving combines
leisure, scientific work, traditional food collection (modernized here!),
social exchange. Four of us are happy to share these moments with our Inuit
friends.